my pet turtle died yesterday, and i was just going to bury him in the backyard. but my friend told me today that there are ways of saving his shell? the way he told me seemed very disrespectful (hang the turtle in a tree, let the bugs eat him, leaving the shell) i was curious if this was the only way, or if i can take him somewhere to get it done.
Answers:
i am a taxidermist...would be very easy to clean your turtle out of his shell...taixidermist would be your best bet
May be a taxidermist.
sounds good to me...
Yeah the taxidermist can help you scrape him out.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Sand Tiger Shark & Tiger Sharks?
Are these two sharks two differant spieces, or are they the same. If the two are differant, I know the Tiger Shark is a shark in which you need to watch out for while swimming, but what about the Sand Tiger Shark?
Answers:
Tiger sharks are in the top 3 most dangerous shark species(with the bull shark and great white). Sand tigers have some mean teeth, but are smaller and most likely don't pose a threat to humans. look at pictures on google to see for yourself.
Yes they are two different shark the sand tiger is ugly and the tiger is sleek.
do a search on google or yahoo for sand tigers and tiger sharks and you will see a big difference.
They are two different species. The tiger shark is the dangerous one. Luckily, tiger sharks don't have people on the menu as their first choice.
Answers:
Tiger sharks are in the top 3 most dangerous shark species(with the bull shark and great white). Sand tigers have some mean teeth, but are smaller and most likely don't pose a threat to humans. look at pictures on google to see for yourself.
Yes they are two different shark the sand tiger is ugly and the tiger is sleek.
do a search on google or yahoo for sand tigers and tiger sharks and you will see a big difference.
They are two different species. The tiger shark is the dangerous one. Luckily, tiger sharks don't have people on the menu as their first choice.
Sally's thinking about pet insurance - I'm looking for examples of unexpected vet costs to convince her.
Sally's thinking about pet insurance. Personally I think it makes sense, I get the impression that it can cost ALOT of money to use a vet in an emergency. Can anyone give me examples of things that have happened and estimated cost please? I don't really know what - hit by a car, unexpected illness - she hasn't been a pet owner for long and I'm not one so I have no idea.
Answers:
Pet Insurance isn't just for the emergencies it is also for preventive measures. I personally have pet insurance on both of my dogs. Good thing too because they have gotten into mischief in their short lives. We stayed in a motel room in Washington left the dogs in the room while we went out to eat. When we came back Rockie was foaming at the mouth and having seizures. We are out of town now with a sick puppy. Rush him to the nearest emergency room and he was in icu for the rest of the day and night and half of the next day. With the insurance I had to pay $500.00 without the insurance the bill would have been over $2000.00. At home about a month ago. I let Rockie and Bandit out in the backyard. When I stepped out 3 stray dogs came after me. Rockie being the "killer" that he is decided he was going to take on all three dogs. Did I mention Rockie is a Chihuahua. Well the one dog grabbed him before I could and had him in his mouth. Another trip to the emergency room. I only had to pay $50.00 this time and it was an after hour call with stitches, shots , xray and medication. So Pet insurance is a great thing to have. You never know what animals may or may not get into. Also Care Credit is another great thing to look into. It is a medical creditcard. You can use it for your medical bills along with vet bills.
with an operation you could think in the direction of a 1000鈧?depends also on what kind of pet of course. i had a dog who has pretty sick, i can tell you that麓s not cheap, so get the insurance and good luck
Unexpected vet cost- Your pet eats something (a sock, a ball...) and it gets a blockage in its digestive tract. That requires emergency surgery and can cost around 1000 bucks, depending on your pet.
Another good one, some illnesses can cause your male pet to have prostate problems which can lead to a urinary emergency... and surgery... and it ain't cheap.
Your pet can break a limb and need it surgically set. Your pet can catch a virus and need to be kept at the vet for supportive care.
Those are some of the ones I can think of.
The emergency vet in my area just for the vet to look at the animal is $300.00 Not including cost for the vet to work on the animal. I think insurance is worth it.
Answers:
Pet Insurance isn't just for the emergencies it is also for preventive measures. I personally have pet insurance on both of my dogs. Good thing too because they have gotten into mischief in their short lives. We stayed in a motel room in Washington left the dogs in the room while we went out to eat. When we came back Rockie was foaming at the mouth and having seizures. We are out of town now with a sick puppy. Rush him to the nearest emergency room and he was in icu for the rest of the day and night and half of the next day. With the insurance I had to pay $500.00 without the insurance the bill would have been over $2000.00. At home about a month ago. I let Rockie and Bandit out in the backyard. When I stepped out 3 stray dogs came after me. Rockie being the "killer" that he is decided he was going to take on all three dogs. Did I mention Rockie is a Chihuahua. Well the one dog grabbed him before I could and had him in his mouth. Another trip to the emergency room. I only had to pay $50.00 this time and it was an after hour call with stitches, shots , xray and medication. So Pet insurance is a great thing to have. You never know what animals may or may not get into. Also Care Credit is another great thing to look into. It is a medical creditcard. You can use it for your medical bills along with vet bills.
with an operation you could think in the direction of a 1000鈧?depends also on what kind of pet of course. i had a dog who has pretty sick, i can tell you that麓s not cheap, so get the insurance and good luck
Unexpected vet cost- Your pet eats something (a sock, a ball...) and it gets a blockage in its digestive tract. That requires emergency surgery and can cost around 1000 bucks, depending on your pet.
Another good one, some illnesses can cause your male pet to have prostate problems which can lead to a urinary emergency... and surgery... and it ain't cheap.
Your pet can break a limb and need it surgically set. Your pet can catch a virus and need to be kept at the vet for supportive care.
Those are some of the ones I can think of.
The emergency vet in my area just for the vet to look at the animal is $300.00 Not including cost for the vet to work on the animal. I think insurance is worth it.
Saddle Fitting?
I just got a saddle to try on my horse(a APHA mare). But I'm not sure if it's a right fit. The saddle fits really well, but it almost feels like the saddle is too flat on her back. It is a full qh by circle Y.
I have two parts two parts to my question:
1. How much distance should there be between the horse's back and thet saddle seat?
2 Is it okay if the skirt it raised up from the horse's rump a little bit?
Answers:
i'm not sure cuz i use tree-less saddles. get a horse- person out there w/ you who knows this stuff. i don't think the skirt should be raised from the horse's body at all. for western saddle, i think you should not see light, but if english saddle, then you should see some light coming between the pad and saddle. i almost forgot- ask this in the horses section, you will get more answers that way.
Man.. you're so lucky. It's been a years since I ask my father to buy one. But I got no luck.
Sorry 'bout your horse, I dunno anything bout it. Maybe you should ask pro.
I have two parts two parts to my question:
1. How much distance should there be between the horse's back and thet saddle seat?
2 Is it okay if the skirt it raised up from the horse's rump a little bit?
Answers:
i'm not sure cuz i use tree-less saddles. get a horse- person out there w/ you who knows this stuff. i don't think the skirt should be raised from the horse's body at all. for western saddle, i think you should not see light, but if english saddle, then you should see some light coming between the pad and saddle. i almost forgot- ask this in the horses section, you will get more answers that way.
Man.. you're so lucky. It's been a years since I ask my father to buy one. But I got no luck.
Sorry 'bout your horse, I dunno anything bout it. Maybe you should ask pro.
Riding Lesson. HELP!?
I have been riding western for about 2 years. Well tomorrow I am getting my first lesson in an English saddle. I am a bit scared. And what do they teach you? And also is English riding more difficult than western? Im only 13 and im not very strong so will english riding be ok?
Answers:
English is not that hard if you know how to rise to the trot and have good balance you should be fine. You do tend to have tighter reins in English. I'm sure you will be fine and will have heaps of fun.
English is a lot of fun and you do not have to be super strong to do it, you will build muscle as time goes on.
Don't be scared. It will be different than what you are used to but the mechanics of it are similar. In english lessons, everything is pretty much the same as western except that you sometimes have to post the trot rather than sit it. English riding is more about balance than strength. There are children much younger and smaller than you who ride english safely. You'll do just fine! Make sure your instructor moves at your pace and doesn't move on to the next step until you are comfortable with it.
Answers:
English is not that hard if you know how to rise to the trot and have good balance you should be fine. You do tend to have tighter reins in English. I'm sure you will be fine and will have heaps of fun.
English is a lot of fun and you do not have to be super strong to do it, you will build muscle as time goes on.
Don't be scared. It will be different than what you are used to but the mechanics of it are similar. In english lessons, everything is pretty much the same as western except that you sometimes have to post the trot rather than sit it. English riding is more about balance than strength. There are children much younger and smaller than you who ride english safely. You'll do just fine! Make sure your instructor moves at your pace and doesn't move on to the next step until you are comfortable with it.
Retire horses?
I have to horses That I dont ride they need good retirement homes.
Answers:
Your question is addressing an ever growing problem since the closure of basically all of the horse slaughtering facilities. The horse retirement farms are full and have really really long waiting lists and tons of people have horses they don't want to take care of any longer but can't find a good way to get rid of them even by attempting to sell them. The problem over the next few years will get exponentially worse.
I hope you have luck at finding a good home for them, but you may have to face the fact that you might be stuck with them till they die.
Ryers...but i know there is a long waiting list.
where r u at? mabye you can find someone in that area? what about the horses? age stuff like that. why r u finding a home? you dont have the time or is somethign wroung with them? you can email me at kitdragon2000@yahoo.com and i can try and help
Post them on Petfinder:
http://www.petfinder.com/index.html...
Be very clear in your ad that they are retired and not for riding. Make sure you charge a reasonable adoption fee so that you eliminate anyone who wants to resell them. A contract would be a good idea. Go to visit the prospective adopter's home before you give the horses away. Good luck.
Contact a rescue group or the ASPCA.
Depending on where you live, the ASPCA may have livestock facilities and can find new homes for horses.
For more information, contact your local animal shelter. They may be able to give you some information on that.
EMT
Answers:
Your question is addressing an ever growing problem since the closure of basically all of the horse slaughtering facilities. The horse retirement farms are full and have really really long waiting lists and tons of people have horses they don't want to take care of any longer but can't find a good way to get rid of them even by attempting to sell them. The problem over the next few years will get exponentially worse.
I hope you have luck at finding a good home for them, but you may have to face the fact that you might be stuck with them till they die.
Ryers...but i know there is a long waiting list.
where r u at? mabye you can find someone in that area? what about the horses? age stuff like that. why r u finding a home? you dont have the time or is somethign wroung with them? you can email me at kitdragon2000@yahoo.com and i can try and help
Post them on Petfinder:
http://www.petfinder.com/index.html...
Be very clear in your ad that they are retired and not for riding. Make sure you charge a reasonable adoption fee so that you eliminate anyone who wants to resell them. A contract would be a good idea. Go to visit the prospective adopter's home before you give the horses away. Good luck.
Contact a rescue group or the ASPCA.
Depending on where you live, the ASPCA may have livestock facilities and can find new homes for horses.
For more information, contact your local animal shelter. They may be able to give you some information on that.
EMT
Respiratory problems that goes to all animals? Help.?
We have a cat center and something is killing the cats some with respiratory problems then some with nothing wrong and a bird we have passed away from the same problems. Antabotics won't help,Vets don't know what else to do. Anyone know what is going on?
Answers:
Would really need more information about the disease to help out but.. the usual suspects are viruses, bacteria, fungi, toxic living conditions (something as simple as some cleaners will kill a cat and a bird no prob!), etc. The easiest way is to send one for post-mortem and tissue histopathology and culture. It will cost some money but will be better for everyone in the long run. Special stains will say if it is viral, fungal or bacterial. Culture will tell specifically which. Toxicology screen will be necessary if the above are ruled out. I would be very concerned as you and the other staff may be at risk!
Have you tried separating them? Disinfecting the cages/play area/etc? If the vets don't know, why would you assume unqualified strangers would know?
Answers:
Would really need more information about the disease to help out but.. the usual suspects are viruses, bacteria, fungi, toxic living conditions (something as simple as some cleaners will kill a cat and a bird no prob!), etc. The easiest way is to send one for post-mortem and tissue histopathology and culture. It will cost some money but will be better for everyone in the long run. Special stains will say if it is viral, fungal or bacterial. Culture will tell specifically which. Toxicology screen will be necessary if the above are ruled out. I would be very concerned as you and the other staff may be at risk!
Have you tried separating them? Disinfecting the cages/play area/etc? If the vets don't know, why would you assume unqualified strangers would know?
Reliable cat breeders in the midlands?
Anyone know of any? I am after 2 pedigree kittens/cats.
Heather
Answers:
Sorry, don't know about breeders because I have never supported getting cats there. I've gotten all of mine from rescue organizations, and they have been fantastic. Maybe you could try that as well.
A great website for finding one in your area is:
petfinder.com
it is an excellent source for finding pets in every city. You can look at pictures of the pet and read about it. There is a fee as with all adoptions to cover spaying/neutering, vaccinations, and sometimes a microchip for indentification. The fee is much less than you would pay to buy a pet from a breeder. Adopting a homeless pet will save a life and make you feel great about yourself in return!
Heather
Answers:
Sorry, don't know about breeders because I have never supported getting cats there. I've gotten all of mine from rescue organizations, and they have been fantastic. Maybe you could try that as well.
A great website for finding one in your area is:
petfinder.com
it is an excellent source for finding pets in every city. You can look at pictures of the pet and read about it. There is a fee as with all adoptions to cover spaying/neutering, vaccinations, and sometimes a microchip for indentification. The fee is much less than you would pay to buy a pet from a breeder. Adopting a homeless pet will save a life and make you feel great about yourself in return!
Red devil + soft shelled turtle?
i have an 80gal tank with gravel and 1 red devil cichlid and 1 plecostmus. The red devil is about the length of a computer mouse (excluding the cord) and kinda small. i was wondering that if i changed my gravel to sand would i be able to get a soft shelled turtle? or would the red devil just try and kill it??
Answers:
actually the turtle would probably eat the fish and the sand would make the ph to low
Answers:
actually the turtle would probably eat the fish and the sand would make the ph to low
Recently Adopted a Spastic Full Grown Guinea Pig...HELP?
About a week ago I adopted a full grown male guinea pig(about 1 1/2 years old?) named Wilson from my work, he was abandoned at the pet store that I work at by his previous owners. He's completely loving and I love him sooo much but he's a spaz! I work with animals at the petstore but he's the most spastic guinea pig I've ever met. The slightest noise startles him...including me turning over in my bed. What can I do to help calm him? I want him to be comfortable with me and when he spazes so easily I feel like he's not comfortable here and would rather be with someone else.
PLEASE HELP ME AND WILSON!
Answers:
Chill! You have only had him for a week and building a relationship where the guinea pig trusts you is going to take some time and lot's of cuddles. Your guinea pig is behaving normal for a guinea pig that is new to a home/area/cage, alert, startled easy etc, mainly because he is still get used to and adjusted to the new sounds, smells, cage etc. Give him some time and he should settle down. If not then it would not hurt to seek the advice of a cavvy savvy vet.
Homeopathy can have amazing results for this sort of thing...but you must find a registered homeopath. The RH does not need to be a vet as many mental/emotional/physical symptoms that are treated in people (in your case - maybe anxiety?) are treated the same in animals.
PLEASE HELP ME AND WILSON!
Answers:
Chill! You have only had him for a week and building a relationship where the guinea pig trusts you is going to take some time and lot's of cuddles. Your guinea pig is behaving normal for a guinea pig that is new to a home/area/cage, alert, startled easy etc, mainly because he is still get used to and adjusted to the new sounds, smells, cage etc. Give him some time and he should settle down. If not then it would not hurt to seek the advice of a cavvy savvy vet.
Homeopathy can have amazing results for this sort of thing...but you must find a registered homeopath. The RH does not need to be a vet as many mental/emotional/physical symptoms that are treated in people (in your case - maybe anxiety?) are treated the same in animals.
Really need an answer for howrse!?
Ok, ive been playing for two days, and i aged my foal a lot. Now she's two years and four months. This horse is just a test to figure everything on howrse out. I need to know how much passes are and how to buy them. I've never bought a pass so this is my first one. Please Help!
Answers:
Hi! I play howrse also. Passes are 15 dollars U.S. To buy one go to the house and underneath it there should be a bag of coins and that is where you can buy them. If you have any more questions message my howrsze screen name coppercobralover. Best Wishes!
dont waste $$ on a pass! use it on something you need, not a online game thtat has nothing to do wih real life!
Answers:
Hi! I play howrse also. Passes are 15 dollars U.S. To buy one go to the house and underneath it there should be a bag of coins and that is where you can buy them. If you have any more questions message my howrsze screen name coppercobralover. Best Wishes!
dont waste $$ on a pass! use it on something you need, not a online game thtat has nothing to do wih real life!
Really cute names for a baby boy rabbit?
I just got a 4 month old boy miniture holand lop rabbit who is black with grey feet and tail what do i name it??
Answers:
love rabbits, use to have one myself
you can call it ummm . . . how about? Hops or Big Ears or
Floppy Feet lol! JK
1 Jesper
2 Pete
3 Harold
good luck on picking a name! =)
Well Peter of course
moo
peter
Bogie
Cornelius
Bobby
Bunny Foo Foo
Jack (like jack rabbit) or Thumper
thor
GEORGE BUSHY TAIL LOL
Whatever comes to you when you look at it.
Thumper! like in bambi :D
thumper dumpy peanut joey max joe joe manny moe or jack johnny patrick or bibbles
yay. they are gooooood nameys arent they
banz
Answers:
love rabbits, use to have one myself
you can call it ummm . . . how about? Hops or Big Ears or
Floppy Feet lol! JK
1 Jesper
2 Pete
3 Harold
good luck on picking a name! =)
Well Peter of course
moo
peter
Bogie
Cornelius
Bobby
Bunny Foo Foo
Jack (like jack rabbit) or Thumper
thor
GEORGE BUSHY TAIL LOL
Whatever comes to you when you look at it.
Thumper! like in bambi :D
thumper dumpy peanut joey max joe joe manny moe or jack johnny patrick or bibbles
yay. they are gooooood nameys arent they
banz
Rats?????
can rats change there sex?? from male 2 female or the other way round??
if not what animal can??
Answers:
O.o...uhhh.NO. Rats can't change their sex. What gave you that idea?
I've known of several types of fish that can switch genders. Can't remember the names of any of them at the moment. Worms have both male and female organs though. Worms! XD
If Jurassic Park has taught us nothing it's that frogs can change sex.
Oh John Hammond, why were you so foolish?
if not what animal can??
Answers:
O.o...uhhh.NO. Rats can't change their sex. What gave you that idea?
I've known of several types of fish that can switch genders. Can't remember the names of any of them at the moment. Worms have both male and female organs though. Worms! XD
If Jurassic Park has taught us nothing it's that frogs can change sex.
Oh John Hammond, why were you so foolish?
Rats/Chinchilla Coated Hardware Cloth?
Ok, I was planning to make a new cage for my Chinchilla, it'll be made of hardware cloth, I was wondering what type would be best for Chinchillas and why? Also, I'm getting some pet rats soon, and I would like to make a cage for them too, so same question, which type hardware cloth and why?
By which type I mean, coated or galvanized, if coated, vinyl, or PVC?
Any other info will help like if they get sick from it if they chew it, etc.
THANKS!
-Joe
Answers:
Idk that. but make sure that u measure the width of ur chinchilla's legs. make it lots smaller than that. From one chinnie lover to another. Out chinchilla, Fuzz Buzz died because he got stuck in his cage and couldnt get out while we were on vacation. tear tear
Make it thick, the wire. And they probaly wont get hurt if they chew through it.
By which type I mean, coated or galvanized, if coated, vinyl, or PVC?
Any other info will help like if they get sick from it if they chew it, etc.
THANKS!
-Joe
Answers:
Idk that. but make sure that u measure the width of ur chinchilla's legs. make it lots smaller than that. From one chinnie lover to another. Out chinchilla, Fuzz Buzz died because he got stuck in his cage and couldnt get out while we were on vacation. tear tear
Make it thick, the wire. And they probaly wont get hurt if they chew through it.
Rat poo bug!?
My rat keeps pooing green poo and i just realized a bug in it. Should I take her to the vet? I only bought her yesterday! Please answer and give some websites I will choose the peraon with the most websites prooving their answers true or whatever! I dont care! just want some info PLEASE!!!!!
Answers:
Yes, take her right away. There is something terribly wrong. You may have to return her to the pet shop, so be ready for anything today. I hope the vet can help her.
Yes, you should. She's in a serious condition and needs to be treated immediateely, unless, of course, you don't like her and want her condition to get worse, which I doubt.
omg same happend to mine and it died take it to the vet NOW!!!.
Answers:
Yes, take her right away. There is something terribly wrong. You may have to return her to the pet shop, so be ready for anything today. I hope the vet can help her.
Yes, you should. She's in a serious condition and needs to be treated immediateely, unless, of course, you don't like her and want her condition to get worse, which I doubt.
omg same happend to mine and it died take it to the vet NOW!!!.
Racoon experiences?
Anyone have any experience with an orphaned racoon that you've raised as a pet?
Answers:
If you are in the US, it is illegal to keep a wild raccoon as a pet. If you have found an injured or orphaned raccoon, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator immediately. You can find one here: http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/contact.
These people have the specialized training to care for sick, injured and orphaned wild animals. They also have the state and federal licenses required to keep wild animals until they are healthy enough for release.
In the US, and many other countries, you need a license to keep a wild animal, even for a short time, even for the purpose of saving the animal's life. That is why wildlife rehabilitators get specialized training and are licensed to do this job.
Raccoons are so cute and cuddly as babies, but they are not good as pets, even if it was legal. They get very nasty when they get older, and they can carry rabies. If you have a pet raccoon and it bites someone, it is a death sentence for the raccoon, as the county health department will take it from you and kill it to test it for rabies.
Also, if you keep a raccoon as a pet, it never gets the opportunity to find a mate and have a family. Do you really want to deny the raccoon the chance to live a normal life?
Please take the raccoon to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator right away!
OH YEAH! He was GREAT! I named him George. What a fun pet. Until he hit puberty. Then he HAD TO GO! It was very sad. He went from a cute pet to a wild-*** animal up in my house. It was all VERY bad. Broke my heart.
I did...when I was a kid...my sister lugged home a 4 week old baby coon.we fed it bottles till he was old enough to eat regular food. He followed all around like dog...he was housebroke..used the litter pan and all. He was a terrific pet...until he reached maturity. He never turned on us..but one day down at the beach, this guy was fishing...he had a bait can sitting there with bait in it..Jo Jo just walked right up to it and started to help himself.When the man reached down to stop him, Jo Jo bit him. It wasn't a bad bite...and to tell you the truth...I don't believe it was intentional either...JoJo sure was enjoying that bait! Anyway...that was the first time we had ever seen any kind of aggression from him, and my parents decided that maybe it was time for him to be set free. We took him to a very nice spot in the Fla "boondocks" where a friend of ours lived close by. They kept an eye on him for us.and in less then 2 weeks..he was like all the other coons there. This story had a happy ending...but most don't.They are absolutely adorable when they are young...but they always grow up, and become wild...and aggressive.
Contact wildlife officers or the local zoo
to give it too - they are wild animals %26 shouldn't be raised by the average person - plus it's illegal in alot of places !
As cute as the animal is leave it alone till your
100 % sure its orphaned %26 then do whats right %26 give it to someone who knows what to do with it and the best chance at life
I do...his name was Chatters. I'm affiated with a local wildlife rehab organization. You should contact one in your area. They are never fully tamed, and if raised in your home, will eventually feel the need to be outside. This is a death sentence since the baby will have been raised with you and will not know how to fend for itself, search for food, or anything which is instrumental for it's survival.
Answers:
If you are in the US, it is illegal to keep a wild raccoon as a pet. If you have found an injured or orphaned raccoon, contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator immediately. You can find one here: http://www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/contact.
These people have the specialized training to care for sick, injured and orphaned wild animals. They also have the state and federal licenses required to keep wild animals until they are healthy enough for release.
In the US, and many other countries, you need a license to keep a wild animal, even for a short time, even for the purpose of saving the animal's life. That is why wildlife rehabilitators get specialized training and are licensed to do this job.
Raccoons are so cute and cuddly as babies, but they are not good as pets, even if it was legal. They get very nasty when they get older, and they can carry rabies. If you have a pet raccoon and it bites someone, it is a death sentence for the raccoon, as the county health department will take it from you and kill it to test it for rabies.
Also, if you keep a raccoon as a pet, it never gets the opportunity to find a mate and have a family. Do you really want to deny the raccoon the chance to live a normal life?
Please take the raccoon to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator right away!
OH YEAH! He was GREAT! I named him George. What a fun pet. Until he hit puberty. Then he HAD TO GO! It was very sad. He went from a cute pet to a wild-*** animal up in my house. It was all VERY bad. Broke my heart.
I did...when I was a kid...my sister lugged home a 4 week old baby coon.we fed it bottles till he was old enough to eat regular food. He followed all around like dog...he was housebroke..used the litter pan and all. He was a terrific pet...until he reached maturity. He never turned on us..but one day down at the beach, this guy was fishing...he had a bait can sitting there with bait in it..Jo Jo just walked right up to it and started to help himself.When the man reached down to stop him, Jo Jo bit him. It wasn't a bad bite...and to tell you the truth...I don't believe it was intentional either...JoJo sure was enjoying that bait! Anyway...that was the first time we had ever seen any kind of aggression from him, and my parents decided that maybe it was time for him to be set free. We took him to a very nice spot in the Fla "boondocks" where a friend of ours lived close by. They kept an eye on him for us.and in less then 2 weeks..he was like all the other coons there. This story had a happy ending...but most don't.They are absolutely adorable when they are young...but they always grow up, and become wild...and aggressive.
Contact wildlife officers or the local zoo
to give it too - they are wild animals %26 shouldn't be raised by the average person - plus it's illegal in alot of places !
As cute as the animal is leave it alone till your
100 % sure its orphaned %26 then do whats right %26 give it to someone who knows what to do with it and the best chance at life
I do...his name was Chatters. I'm affiated with a local wildlife rehab organization. You should contact one in your area. They are never fully tamed, and if raised in your home, will eventually feel the need to be outside. This is a death sentence since the baby will have been raised with you and will not know how to fend for itself, search for food, or anything which is instrumental for it's survival.
Rabbits Heat Stroke?
I have a male rabbits and a female rabbit that live outside and they're both housed in separate NIC condos. I was wondering can they die of heat stroke during the summer if their cages are in the shade? They have plenty of water and when its too hot, they run in their mini crates that I left in their condo so they have something to hide in. I left mini pillows and blankets in their crates so they have something to hide under, will they be fine?
Answers:
Rotate between between bottles of frozen water for the bunnies. Put them where the rabbits lie down most, and when they melt, rinse, put in freezer, and take another one out. I don't know about your bunnies, but my bunny used to LOVE water. Many don't, but you should try giving them a shallow pan of water, about 1 inch, and let them splash around.
Yes, any and all animals can die of heat stroke, however, giving them shade, as well as fresh cool water every couple hours helps reduce that risk. However, I don't recommend it. Animals are a lot like us, they feel the heat, and bunnies, are really made for the heat, either. Perhaps bringing them in for the summer wouldn't be a bad idea...just in case, they'd be happier that way, too :)
Wouldn't you be happier in a cool and refreshing place than a hot and uncomfortable one?
It depends on just how hot is gets and the humidity. Rabbits are very sensitive to heat and can have a heat stroke if over heated. Over 82.4F and they can be stressed. They can't sweat, and though they can pant, it doesn't cool them effectively. They also tend not to drink enough when it is too hot. If you aren't sure, it would be safer to bring them indoors, at least during the hottest parts of the day.
There are certain types of rabbits that can be out in the heat and others have to be in a cool place. The heat does damage to their brains. It will effect other types ofsmall animals also.
Rule of thumb: 80 degrees, watch them. 85 degrees, go out and cool them off or bring 'em in. 90 degrees can definitely kill.
A used pak-n-play portable play pen with a leaf trash bag over the padding will make it leak proof. You can keep them in that indoors if they are altered or keep them in separate bathrooms if they are not.
You can fill up one gallon milk jugs with water and put them in the cage with the rabbits and that will give them something cool to snuggle up against. I also used to have a fan blowing into the area where my rabbit was when she was outside in the summertime on the porch. My rabbit is much happier now that she lives inside in the house in a dog crate with a dog yard attached around it. She has a/c, tile floors and loves the indoors. She doesn't shed as bad and has been much healthier.
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yes
they will be fine just be shure to give them plenty of ice cold water
if I were you, i'd build their NIC condos inside; they'll be happier and live longer. I don't know where you live, but if it's anything like where I live, it's horribly hot. My rabbit's condo is in my room and he even gets hot in my air conditioned house, so he flops out on top of the air vent, if that tells you anything about what a rabbit wants.
If you do keep them outside though, don't give them ice water. I don't know if it applies to rabbits the same as dogs, but I read/heard from a friend that giving ice water to animals outside when it's really hot can cause their stomachs to bloat because of the huge temperature difference. (See the link below) Anyway, thought i might share that tip.
If you don't want them to get over hot and cant bring them inside you could put frozen watter bottles in the crates you gave them. that give them something cool to lay up against. Also make sure they have plenty of water. I lost a rabbit to heatstroke when I was little because I forgot to give it water.
Yes they can. I had my rabbit for five and a half years (she went missing a few months ago) and I live in Australia so it gets up to 40 degrees (that's 104 for America). As soon as it hit 30 degrees (80) I would put her in the garage where it was cool. I could see her suffering sometimes. She would lie stretched out and breath really fast. I also used to protect her from the cold winter night too.
Answers:
Rotate between between bottles of frozen water for the bunnies. Put them where the rabbits lie down most, and when they melt, rinse, put in freezer, and take another one out. I don't know about your bunnies, but my bunny used to LOVE water. Many don't, but you should try giving them a shallow pan of water, about 1 inch, and let them splash around.
Yes, any and all animals can die of heat stroke, however, giving them shade, as well as fresh cool water every couple hours helps reduce that risk. However, I don't recommend it. Animals are a lot like us, they feel the heat, and bunnies, are really made for the heat, either. Perhaps bringing them in for the summer wouldn't be a bad idea...just in case, they'd be happier that way, too :)
Wouldn't you be happier in a cool and refreshing place than a hot and uncomfortable one?
It depends on just how hot is gets and the humidity. Rabbits are very sensitive to heat and can have a heat stroke if over heated. Over 82.4F and they can be stressed. They can't sweat, and though they can pant, it doesn't cool them effectively. They also tend not to drink enough when it is too hot. If you aren't sure, it would be safer to bring them indoors, at least during the hottest parts of the day.
There are certain types of rabbits that can be out in the heat and others have to be in a cool place. The heat does damage to their brains. It will effect other types ofsmall animals also.
Rule of thumb: 80 degrees, watch them. 85 degrees, go out and cool them off or bring 'em in. 90 degrees can definitely kill.
A used pak-n-play portable play pen with a leaf trash bag over the padding will make it leak proof. You can keep them in that indoors if they are altered or keep them in separate bathrooms if they are not.
You can fill up one gallon milk jugs with water and put them in the cage with the rabbits and that will give them something cool to snuggle up against. I also used to have a fan blowing into the area where my rabbit was when she was outside in the summertime on the porch. My rabbit is much happier now that she lives inside in the house in a dog crate with a dog yard attached around it. She has a/c, tile floors and loves the indoors. She doesn't shed as bad and has been much healthier.
%26lt;a href="%26lt;img">http://www.blinkingtextlive.co... src="http://img105.mytextgraphics.com/blinkin... border="0" alt="Blink Tag html - http://www.blinkingtextlive.co... />%26lt;/a>%26lt;br />%26lt;br />%26lt;a href="http://www.blinkingtextlive.co... target="_blank">javascript blinking text%26lt;/a>
yes
they will be fine just be shure to give them plenty of ice cold water
if I were you, i'd build their NIC condos inside; they'll be happier and live longer. I don't know where you live, but if it's anything like where I live, it's horribly hot. My rabbit's condo is in my room and he even gets hot in my air conditioned house, so he flops out on top of the air vent, if that tells you anything about what a rabbit wants.
If you do keep them outside though, don't give them ice water. I don't know if it applies to rabbits the same as dogs, but I read/heard from a friend that giving ice water to animals outside when it's really hot can cause their stomachs to bloat because of the huge temperature difference. (See the link below) Anyway, thought i might share that tip.
If you don't want them to get over hot and cant bring them inside you could put frozen watter bottles in the crates you gave them. that give them something cool to lay up against. Also make sure they have plenty of water. I lost a rabbit to heatstroke when I was little because I forgot to give it water.
Yes they can. I had my rabbit for five and a half years (she went missing a few months ago) and I live in Australia so it gets up to 40 degrees (that's 104 for America). As soon as it hit 30 degrees (80) I would put her in the garage where it was cool. I could see her suffering sometimes. She would lie stretched out and breath really fast. I also used to protect her from the cold winter night too.
Rabbits considerion?
Im considering getting a rabbit. How big of a cage do i need. How can i exsrise my rabbit. what is a good diet for my rabbit
Answers:
I have a herd of healthy and happy rabbits. Some are pets, others are breeding and show rabbits. This is what I do:
All of my rabbits are in wire cages. Some people will tell you these are bad, but as long as the wire is properly sized and in good shape, it will not do any harm to the rabbit. You always want to get the absolute largest cage you can afford, for a small-medium rabbit it should be a minimum of 24 inches long and 24 inches wide, and tall enough for the rabbit to stand on it's hind legs without hitting it's head-about 14".
There are other cage options out there that you can explore, check out NIC Cages (do a google search) as a neat alternative for an indoor cage. I prefer the wire cages because they are economical, easy to find, easy to keep clean, comfortable, and provide excellent ventillation-very important for bunny health!
Exercise can be provided several ways. Toys for the rabbit to play with in and out of it's cage are a good start, as is some out of cage time to run around a room in the house. You want to 'bunny proof' the room which is much like puppy or baby proofing it. No spaces to get behind furniture, no dangerous chemicals or plants, no wires-because rabbits WILL chew them! Some rabbits even take to being walked on a harness, so you can stroll around the yard with them.
There is a lot of debate on diet. Rabbits do not NEED veggies as part of their diet as some people will claim, but that is one way you can feed them. This is what has worked with my herd for 7 years:
Unlimited fresh, clean, and cool water
Daily grass hay (timothy, sudan, bermuda, etc. NO alfalfa hay!)
Alfalfa based pellets, 1 ounce per pound of weight (a four pound rabbit gets 4 ounces of pellets daily).
I also give mine an occasional slice of apple or banana as a treat. They love it!
As a side note, I encourage you not to get a rabbit from a pet store. Instead try to find a breeder or rescue local to you. You can visit http://www.arba.net/photo.htm to see 47 breeds of rabbits and learn more about them by clicking on the picture.
Get a big enough of a cage so he/she has enough room to stretch out.My recently deceased rabbit loved to just lay out all stretched out.(RIP LOLA!)And my new rabbit does that to.If you keep it outside,build a fenced in area for it with chicken wire, so it can run around when you let it.Keep a close watch on it too, unless you don't want a rabbit anymore.If you keep it inside, let it out to hop around in a room where messes are easy to clean up.*Rabbits don't like totally wide open spaces.Give it a place to hide.*
As for a diet,I just give my rabbit food from a local petstore,and some fruits and veggies too.Don't give it too many extra treats though,otherwise they will get a tummy ache and diarrhea.Hay in the winter time is good.A little once in a while if they are an inside rabbit,a little every day if they are an outside rabbit.
Also, if it is an outside rabbit,make sure it has a warm, dry place to stay in the winter,and a cool place in summer.Take a plastic bottle(water bottles work for me) and freeze it and give it to them during very hot days.This works as an air conditioner and they can lay by it and it keeps them cool.(1 per rabbit and check the bottle consistently so your rabbit doesn't get over heated when the ice melts.)Make sure to trim their nails,and give them something to chew on.I usually use twigs from our apple tree.
Hope this helped
Sparkles=D
Answers:
I have a herd of healthy and happy rabbits. Some are pets, others are breeding and show rabbits. This is what I do:
All of my rabbits are in wire cages. Some people will tell you these are bad, but as long as the wire is properly sized and in good shape, it will not do any harm to the rabbit. You always want to get the absolute largest cage you can afford, for a small-medium rabbit it should be a minimum of 24 inches long and 24 inches wide, and tall enough for the rabbit to stand on it's hind legs without hitting it's head-about 14".
There are other cage options out there that you can explore, check out NIC Cages (do a google search) as a neat alternative for an indoor cage. I prefer the wire cages because they are economical, easy to find, easy to keep clean, comfortable, and provide excellent ventillation-very important for bunny health!
Exercise can be provided several ways. Toys for the rabbit to play with in and out of it's cage are a good start, as is some out of cage time to run around a room in the house. You want to 'bunny proof' the room which is much like puppy or baby proofing it. No spaces to get behind furniture, no dangerous chemicals or plants, no wires-because rabbits WILL chew them! Some rabbits even take to being walked on a harness, so you can stroll around the yard with them.
There is a lot of debate on diet. Rabbits do not NEED veggies as part of their diet as some people will claim, but that is one way you can feed them. This is what has worked with my herd for 7 years:
Unlimited fresh, clean, and cool water
Daily grass hay (timothy, sudan, bermuda, etc. NO alfalfa hay!)
Alfalfa based pellets, 1 ounce per pound of weight (a four pound rabbit gets 4 ounces of pellets daily).
I also give mine an occasional slice of apple or banana as a treat. They love it!
As a side note, I encourage you not to get a rabbit from a pet store. Instead try to find a breeder or rescue local to you. You can visit http://www.arba.net/photo.htm to see 47 breeds of rabbits and learn more about them by clicking on the picture.
Get a big enough of a cage so he/she has enough room to stretch out.My recently deceased rabbit loved to just lay out all stretched out.(RIP LOLA!)And my new rabbit does that to.If you keep it outside,build a fenced in area for it with chicken wire, so it can run around when you let it.Keep a close watch on it too, unless you don't want a rabbit anymore.If you keep it inside, let it out to hop around in a room where messes are easy to clean up.*Rabbits don't like totally wide open spaces.Give it a place to hide.*
As for a diet,I just give my rabbit food from a local petstore,and some fruits and veggies too.Don't give it too many extra treats though,otherwise they will get a tummy ache and diarrhea.Hay in the winter time is good.A little once in a while if they are an inside rabbit,a little every day if they are an outside rabbit.
Also, if it is an outside rabbit,make sure it has a warm, dry place to stay in the winter,and a cool place in summer.Take a plastic bottle(water bottles work for me) and freeze it and give it to them during very hot days.This works as an air conditioner and they can lay by it and it keeps them cool.(1 per rabbit and check the bottle consistently so your rabbit doesn't get over heated when the ice melts.)Make sure to trim their nails,and give them something to chew on.I usually use twigs from our apple tree.
Hope this helped
Sparkles=D
Rabbit?? cat flea and tick spray??
i have kittens and i saw a flea on one so i sprayed the two but i have a rabbit also and i was wondering if i could spray her to just in case will it be toxic i want to know so i dont spray her and she licks and and gets entoxicated
Answers:
Hi Jay,
I actually lost on of my cats after he got kidney failure after using off-the-shelf worming tablets. Since then I always get the treatments from the vet.
I can also confirm what kat M says; my vet told me that one of her patients died after a a store-bought flea spray had been used on her; she couldn't stop the cat from having fits afterwards.
When my cat was a kitten they were seriously infested with fleas and the owner sprayed the entire litter with an off-the-shelf spray which resulted in them being upset and drooling and spitting. Fortunately they survived but it was very worrying at the time.
The off-the-shelf medication is cheaper and easier but one always takes a chance. I have learnt that it is better to invest the time and money to go to the vet as it can save a lot of sadness and remorse in the future.
Even if your cat flea spray is from the vet you ought to ask if it is safe to use on the rabbit.
best wishes
chirpy
As a vet tech, i know we have used the flea and tick preventative in the oil drop form. Advantage or front line. NO ADVANTIX! bad for cats. The ones that come in a applicator and apply on the back, under the fur. Anyways we have used advantage (the smallest kitten/cat weight one) on guinea pigs and large rats, so I'm sure you can use it on a rabbit. Make sure to only use one drop nothing more and that should work. hope that answers your question
should get special sprays or treatments from your local vet. I have had 4 different vet's tell me that the over the counter treatments can cause seizes and death .because it somehow gets in there nerve sytem .
please cheach whith your vet!!
I would not use any sprays or powders on a rabbit, but you can use either Revolution or Advantage spot-on treatment. Use the kitten dose.
Advantage kills fleas. Revolution kills fleas, lice, and both fur mites and ear mites.
DO NOT use Frontline in any form 鈥?it is deadly to rabbits.
.
Answers:
Hi Jay,
I actually lost on of my cats after he got kidney failure after using off-the-shelf worming tablets. Since then I always get the treatments from the vet.
I can also confirm what kat M says; my vet told me that one of her patients died after a a store-bought flea spray had been used on her; she couldn't stop the cat from having fits afterwards.
When my cat was a kitten they were seriously infested with fleas and the owner sprayed the entire litter with an off-the-shelf spray which resulted in them being upset and drooling and spitting. Fortunately they survived but it was very worrying at the time.
The off-the-shelf medication is cheaper and easier but one always takes a chance. I have learnt that it is better to invest the time and money to go to the vet as it can save a lot of sadness and remorse in the future.
Even if your cat flea spray is from the vet you ought to ask if it is safe to use on the rabbit.
best wishes
chirpy
As a vet tech, i know we have used the flea and tick preventative in the oil drop form. Advantage or front line. NO ADVANTIX! bad for cats. The ones that come in a applicator and apply on the back, under the fur. Anyways we have used advantage (the smallest kitten/cat weight one) on guinea pigs and large rats, so I'm sure you can use it on a rabbit. Make sure to only use one drop nothing more and that should work. hope that answers your question
should get special sprays or treatments from your local vet. I have had 4 different vet's tell me that the over the counter treatments can cause seizes and death .because it somehow gets in there nerve sytem .
please cheach whith your vet!!
I would not use any sprays or powders on a rabbit, but you can use either Revolution or Advantage spot-on treatment. Use the kitten dose.
Advantage kills fleas. Revolution kills fleas, lice, and both fur mites and ear mites.
DO NOT use Frontline in any form 鈥?it is deadly to rabbits.
.
Rabbit...thinking of getting one?
I was thinking of getting my daughter who is 9 yrs old a rabbit. she wants one soooo bad but i know nothing about them and how to care for them and if anybody has had any exprenicence having them, i would appreciate you to share...thanks
Answers:
The first thing to consider is how mature and responsible your daughter is.
Rabbits are great animals, but not always the best pet for a child or for someone who many lose interest. They are longer lived than some animals, averaging between 6-10 years, with some living even longer. They can bite or scratch-not out of aggression, but usually out of fear or discomfort. Rabbits can become attached to their people but they won't play with you like a dog, nor will they usually come curl up next to you like a cat would. Rabbits may also need vet care and usually will have to see an exotic vet, which can become pretty pricey.
Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits is still one of my favorite books for the beginner, even though it's geared more towards breeders (by the way, I don't recommend breeding unless you have a pedigreed rabbit of good quality, show, and do a LOT of research) there is a lot of good basic information in the book about feeding, health, rabbit behavior, and handling.
Speaking of showing...have you considered getting your daughter into an extra-curricular activity? She could start in 4-H with a rabbit project, and learn a lot about their care and handling, work on projects with other kids, and go to local shows. It's a great way to help her learn some responsibility and build confidence, too.
Rabbit needs start off pretty basic:
A cage (I prefer all wire, something with a solid bottom is fine if you plan to litter train) at least 24"x24".
Food bowl and water bottle
Rabbit-safe bedding (there are some arguments against cedar and pine shavings)
Good quality rabbit pellets (most pet store pellets are junk, it's better and cheaper to go through a feed store for these, or order from a good company like Oxbow)
Good Quality GRASS HAY (same as with the pellets, and NO ALFALFA hay!)
And some kind of brush and some nail clippers would be a good idea, too.
My rabbits get hay daily, and are fed pellets at 1 ounce per every pound of body weight (so a 4 pound rabbit gets about 4 ounces of pellets, you can adjust this if your rabbit is losing or gaining too much weight). Once or twice a week they get a little slice of banana or apple as a treat. Mine get no veggies as a regular part of the diet, and while you can choose to feed them on a diet of primarily vegetables, you don't HAVE to. I like feeding pellets because they're easy to store, cheaper to buy (I get a 50lb bag for $12), and they are guaranteed to have all the nutrition the rabbit needs.
Here are some of my favorite rabbit links:
http://www.arba.net./photo.htm
http://islandgems.net/
http://www.barbibrownsbunnies.com/...
http://www.rabbited.0catch.com/...
http://www.showbunny.com
well i got a guinea pig and new nothing about them so i went to the libary and took out a childrens book abou them it told me everything. i also know about rabits they need a big hutch.
I know that rabbits are quiet, litterbox trainable, friendly and make excellent house pets
But a good place to start is at the house rabbit society.
www.rabbit.org
They are an excellent resource on owning a bunny, and they even have a list of organizations where you can adopt a bunny.
Well, rabbits need a large cage.
About 3' x 2'
they also need a litter box, litter, food, toys, a hide out, a water sipper, timothy hay or alfalfa, and bedding.
I would change their food bowl 3 times a day.
She/he will need PLENTY or timothy hay/alfalfa so that needs to be in her/his cage 24/7.
As for toys, chew sticks, hide outs, balls, stuffed things, and other things like that.
The litter box looks kinda like a triangle, and fits in the corner of the cage.
to train them to go in there, when she/he poops in the cage pick it up and put it in there, she/he will understand that there is were the poopies go.
for bedding (the stuff you put on the bottom of the cage) get CareFRESH.
It sucks up odors and is soft on thier feet.
if you have any more questions go to www.rabbit.org
have fun!!
you should tell her if she can accept the responsibilty
does she hav a place to put it
food
will she play with it
and the most IMPORTANT
will she clean it's poo
they may poo little pieces
but they can poo alot
so also tell her if she will clean it in her spare time
you should also check out this site
http://www.allearssac.org/basiccare.html...
My first pet was a rabbit and i believe i was only 5. my parents got for me for easter and i couldnt have been more ecstatic! over time though (a period of about 2 months) the rabbit grew up and wasnt as cute and exciting as before. We ended building her wood hutch out in the backyard for her to stay in and she lived there for a good 10 yrs. I would definitely suggest making sure your daughter is ready for pet responsibility before buying a bunny. YOU must also like bunnies considering you will probably be the one who ends up taking care of it for the most part . If you feel that you and your daughter are ready for that responsilbilty (cleanup, health, playtime, feeding etc) than by all means go ahead and get your rabbit :)
They are fairly easy animals to care of, but do require some time each day. I would like to recommend that if you plan on getting one, you find a place to keep her indoors. Our rabbits were outdoors and in the summer months, it was hard to keep them from heat exhaustion and maggots, and in the winter it was hard to keep them as warm as they need to be. A large wire cage will do, and some kind of bedding or towels (which WILL get chewed) are probably best to have in there. The rabbit diet is fairly simple. pellets for the everyday main diet, and of course fresh water. Check out online for treat options. i know we used to give ours little yogurt treats, lettuce, carrots, apples, and potato peels. make sure that you handle your rabbit often, as rabbits can be prone to biting and with teeth like those, you dont want your daughter ending up in that situation. considering most cute little bunnnies end up becoming rather large and heavy, i would consider getting a dwarf bunny if at all possible (as they are more manageable and would be easier for a young girl to take care of.) check out dutch bunnies! we had a few and even breeded them. great pets :) good luck!
Rabbits are ah-mazing pets!! I keep mine inside though. Most ppl generally keep their bunnies outside, but I like to keep mine inside my bedroom. You need to let her pick it out and make sure it's compadable with her. If it's going to be an inside pet then you will need a fairly large cage. I would recommend getting really big bags of feed at a time because it's cheaper then the little bags and Mana Pro you can get it at tractor suppley. It's like 6 dollars for a 25 lbs bag. Do not get the feed from petsmart, some of there food was infected with mycotoxins lats year ( a type of mold) It killed both of my rabbits because the vet couldn't do anthing about it and they both bled to death. It was terrible and heart breaking so I would only get food from larger feed stores. I'd say she would love a mini rex because of they're fur. They have the softest fur of any rabbit, most ppl describe it as feeling like your petting velvet or silk.
http://www.centralpets.com/php/search/st...
here is a little bit of info about the breed incase you are interested in it.
Good Luck!
鈾es鈾?
rabbits are not good with little children because they bite or etc
Answers:
The first thing to consider is how mature and responsible your daughter is.
Rabbits are great animals, but not always the best pet for a child or for someone who many lose interest. They are longer lived than some animals, averaging between 6-10 years, with some living even longer. They can bite or scratch-not out of aggression, but usually out of fear or discomfort. Rabbits can become attached to their people but they won't play with you like a dog, nor will they usually come curl up next to you like a cat would. Rabbits may also need vet care and usually will have to see an exotic vet, which can become pretty pricey.
Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits is still one of my favorite books for the beginner, even though it's geared more towards breeders (by the way, I don't recommend breeding unless you have a pedigreed rabbit of good quality, show, and do a LOT of research) there is a lot of good basic information in the book about feeding, health, rabbit behavior, and handling.
Speaking of showing...have you considered getting your daughter into an extra-curricular activity? She could start in 4-H with a rabbit project, and learn a lot about their care and handling, work on projects with other kids, and go to local shows. It's a great way to help her learn some responsibility and build confidence, too.
Rabbit needs start off pretty basic:
A cage (I prefer all wire, something with a solid bottom is fine if you plan to litter train) at least 24"x24".
Food bowl and water bottle
Rabbit-safe bedding (there are some arguments against cedar and pine shavings)
Good quality rabbit pellets (most pet store pellets are junk, it's better and cheaper to go through a feed store for these, or order from a good company like Oxbow)
Good Quality GRASS HAY (same as with the pellets, and NO ALFALFA hay!)
And some kind of brush and some nail clippers would be a good idea, too.
My rabbits get hay daily, and are fed pellets at 1 ounce per every pound of body weight (so a 4 pound rabbit gets about 4 ounces of pellets, you can adjust this if your rabbit is losing or gaining too much weight). Once or twice a week they get a little slice of banana or apple as a treat. Mine get no veggies as a regular part of the diet, and while you can choose to feed them on a diet of primarily vegetables, you don't HAVE to. I like feeding pellets because they're easy to store, cheaper to buy (I get a 50lb bag for $12), and they are guaranteed to have all the nutrition the rabbit needs.
Here are some of my favorite rabbit links:
http://www.arba.net./photo.htm
http://islandgems.net/
http://www.barbibrownsbunnies.com/...
http://www.rabbited.0catch.com/...
http://www.showbunny.com
well i got a guinea pig and new nothing about them so i went to the libary and took out a childrens book abou them it told me everything. i also know about rabits they need a big hutch.
I know that rabbits are quiet, litterbox trainable, friendly and make excellent house pets
But a good place to start is at the house rabbit society.
www.rabbit.org
They are an excellent resource on owning a bunny, and they even have a list of organizations where you can adopt a bunny.
Well, rabbits need a large cage.
About 3' x 2'
they also need a litter box, litter, food, toys, a hide out, a water sipper, timothy hay or alfalfa, and bedding.
I would change their food bowl 3 times a day.
She/he will need PLENTY or timothy hay/alfalfa so that needs to be in her/his cage 24/7.
As for toys, chew sticks, hide outs, balls, stuffed things, and other things like that.
The litter box looks kinda like a triangle, and fits in the corner of the cage.
to train them to go in there, when she/he poops in the cage pick it up and put it in there, she/he will understand that there is were the poopies go.
for bedding (the stuff you put on the bottom of the cage) get CareFRESH.
It sucks up odors and is soft on thier feet.
if you have any more questions go to www.rabbit.org
have fun!!
you should tell her if she can accept the responsibilty
does she hav a place to put it
food
will she play with it
and the most IMPORTANT
will she clean it's poo
they may poo little pieces
but they can poo alot
so also tell her if she will clean it in her spare time
you should also check out this site
http://www.allearssac.org/basiccare.html...
My first pet was a rabbit and i believe i was only 5. my parents got for me for easter and i couldnt have been more ecstatic! over time though (a period of about 2 months) the rabbit grew up and wasnt as cute and exciting as before. We ended building her wood hutch out in the backyard for her to stay in and she lived there for a good 10 yrs. I would definitely suggest making sure your daughter is ready for pet responsibility before buying a bunny. YOU must also like bunnies considering you will probably be the one who ends up taking care of it for the most part . If you feel that you and your daughter are ready for that responsilbilty (cleanup, health, playtime, feeding etc) than by all means go ahead and get your rabbit :)
They are fairly easy animals to care of, but do require some time each day. I would like to recommend that if you plan on getting one, you find a place to keep her indoors. Our rabbits were outdoors and in the summer months, it was hard to keep them from heat exhaustion and maggots, and in the winter it was hard to keep them as warm as they need to be. A large wire cage will do, and some kind of bedding or towels (which WILL get chewed) are probably best to have in there. The rabbit diet is fairly simple. pellets for the everyday main diet, and of course fresh water. Check out online for treat options. i know we used to give ours little yogurt treats, lettuce, carrots, apples, and potato peels. make sure that you handle your rabbit often, as rabbits can be prone to biting and with teeth like those, you dont want your daughter ending up in that situation. considering most cute little bunnnies end up becoming rather large and heavy, i would consider getting a dwarf bunny if at all possible (as they are more manageable and would be easier for a young girl to take care of.) check out dutch bunnies! we had a few and even breeded them. great pets :) good luck!
Rabbits are ah-mazing pets!! I keep mine inside though. Most ppl generally keep their bunnies outside, but I like to keep mine inside my bedroom. You need to let her pick it out and make sure it's compadable with her. If it's going to be an inside pet then you will need a fairly large cage. I would recommend getting really big bags of feed at a time because it's cheaper then the little bags and Mana Pro you can get it at tractor suppley. It's like 6 dollars for a 25 lbs bag. Do not get the feed from petsmart, some of there food was infected with mycotoxins lats year ( a type of mold) It killed both of my rabbits because the vet couldn't do anthing about it and they both bled to death. It was terrible and heart breaking so I would only get food from larger feed stores. I'd say she would love a mini rex because of they're fur. They have the softest fur of any rabbit, most ppl describe it as feeling like your petting velvet or silk.
http://www.centralpets.com/php/search/st...
here is a little bit of info about the breed incase you are interested in it.
Good Luck!
鈾es鈾?
rabbits are not good with little children because they bite or etc
Rabbit Word Scramble?
Help I cant figure this out...
yunbn- Bunny
inmi pol- Mini Lop
bbrait lleetps- Rabbit ?
shimfle igtan- ?
greeiped- ?
terwa ttoble- ?
Answers:
3. pellets
4. flemish giant
5. pedigree
6. water bottle
yunbn - Bunny
inmi pol - Mini Lop
bbrait lleetps - rabbit pellets
shimfle igtan - Flemish giant
greeiped - pedigree
terwa ttoble - water bottle
bunny
mini lop
rabbit pellets
flemish giant
pedigree
water bottle
******you already have your answers, I just wanted to say Thank you for the little brain teaser this morning. I looked at questions before the answers.
yunbn- Bunny
inmi pol- Mini Lop
bbrait lleetps- Rabbit ?
shimfle igtan- ?
greeiped- ?
terwa ttoble- ?
Answers:
3. pellets
4. flemish giant
5. pedigree
6. water bottle
yunbn - Bunny
inmi pol - Mini Lop
bbrait lleetps - rabbit pellets
shimfle igtan - Flemish giant
greeiped - pedigree
terwa ttoble - water bottle
bunny
mini lop
rabbit pellets
flemish giant
pedigree
water bottle
******you already have your answers, I just wanted to say Thank you for the little brain teaser this morning. I looked at questions before the answers.
Rabbit troubles involving waste! help me?
my rabbit goes anywhere she wants for her litter box, and she only tries to dig in her her real one or chew the sides of it. wat should i do?
Answers:
she'll get a hang out it as they get older they get jus a bit more neater than usual...i have a baby rabbit and shes always digging its just her age and shes bored from being in the cage let her out more and sit on the floor with her...she'll get use to you after awhile...but for the part that they **** everywhere that still ain't changed for me...put some hay in the litter box so she'll go to that spot more often...
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/rabbits/a...
^That might help ^^.
From personal experience--try putting pieces of waste or clumps of urinated-on bedding in her litter box (use gloves or paper towel), it'll help her learn that the box is a place to 'go'.
i assume she's not litter box trained if she goes wherever she wants. Find the area she goes most often and place the litter box there. Afterwards, place a few of her droppings and pee shavings/bedding (if any) into that litter box. Keep putting her back into her litter box. Everytime she leaves, keep putting her back. Eventually, she'll learn to use that area as her litter box. Treat rabbits like children. You gotta be persistent in order for them to learn. Be patient. She may not catch on right away. Keep doing this and she'll pick up on the fact that that's her bathroom area. I must warn you, some rabbits can't be litter trained no matter how hard you try. Let's just hope your rabbit isn't one of those rabbits.
It depends,
how old is your rabbit?
if still a baby it will take your rabbit a bit of time, limit her playtime to a small room, if its an older rabbit get her fixed shes probably marking her territory
it also may be her litterbox is too small, also try sticking timothy hay on one end of the litterbox she will use it more
for tips go here:
http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego...
http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego...
Good Luck!
PS i disagree with the one answer i have never met a rabbit that couldnt be litterboxed trained, most take to it fairly fast with a few accidents though!
Answers:
she'll get a hang out it as they get older they get jus a bit more neater than usual...i have a baby rabbit and shes always digging its just her age and shes bored from being in the cage let her out more and sit on the floor with her...she'll get use to you after awhile...but for the part that they **** everywhere that still ain't changed for me...put some hay in the litter box so she'll go to that spot more often...
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/rabbits/a...
^That might help ^^.
From personal experience--try putting pieces of waste or clumps of urinated-on bedding in her litter box (use gloves or paper towel), it'll help her learn that the box is a place to 'go'.
i assume she's not litter box trained if she goes wherever she wants. Find the area she goes most often and place the litter box there. Afterwards, place a few of her droppings and pee shavings/bedding (if any) into that litter box. Keep putting her back into her litter box. Everytime she leaves, keep putting her back. Eventually, she'll learn to use that area as her litter box. Treat rabbits like children. You gotta be persistent in order for them to learn. Be patient. She may not catch on right away. Keep doing this and she'll pick up on the fact that that's her bathroom area. I must warn you, some rabbits can't be litter trained no matter how hard you try. Let's just hope your rabbit isn't one of those rabbits.
It depends,
how old is your rabbit?
if still a baby it will take your rabbit a bit of time, limit her playtime to a small room, if its an older rabbit get her fixed shes probably marking her territory
it also may be her litterbox is too small, also try sticking timothy hay on one end of the litterbox she will use it more
for tips go here:
http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego...
http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego...
Good Luck!
PS i disagree with the one answer i have never met a rabbit that couldnt be litterboxed trained, most take to it fairly fast with a few accidents though!
Rabbit toys you'd reccomend?
I want to buy or make my rabbits some toys, and I was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to suggest some and where I can find them. I don't want to spend a fortune.
They already have a Roll N Chew toy which they don't really play with-they seem to avoid coloured woods, but they love their Treat Ball. One is about 5 years old and the other is one, and they're both on the large side-not fat, but quite big. Any reccomendations? Thanks.
Answers:
The more you play with your rabbit, the more it'll consider you as its play mate, especially if it doesn't have a rabbit companion. Making and buying toys is a great way to bond with with your rabbit, and you will see him do things you didn't think rabbits could do - like dance! Plastic Slinkys, hard plastic baby key rings, hard plastic baby rattles and small unvarnished, unpainted baskets are great rabbit toys. Some other toys that rabbits prefer are paper bags and cardboard boxes for crawling inside, cardboard roll from paper towels or toilet paper, cat toys: batta balls, and other cat toys that roll or can be tossed, parrot toys that can be tossed or hung from the top of the cage, baby toys: hard plastic (not teething) toys like rattles and keys, and slinkies. It's really exciting and fun playing with your rabbit because you'd be amazed on how much fun you and your bunny will be having. If you want a way to play with your rabbit that I'd most likely recommend, I'd be happy to tell you:
- Cut a cardboard from a roll of paper towels into halves or thirds and stuff it with hay. Clean toilet paper tubes work well, too.
- Get on the floor with your rabbit and give him one of the toys. Rabbits, like cats, are independent. Let your rabbit come to you. Rabbits are also very curious. They will want to check you out.
- Shake a rattle, or anything that can shake and make a particular noise, and then place it on the ground near your rabbit. He will probably pick it up and toss it.
- Play games, like hide and seek with your rabbit or have him find alfalfa pellets hidden in your closed hands.
- Pretend the Slinky, if you have one already or bought one, is sneaking up on him. He will lunge at it and pretend to attack it. Roll the cardboard tube toward him or stand it up on end. He will pick it up and toss it or push it over. Then, let him have it and toss it around.
- Leave these toys in your rabbit's play area so he can play on his own when you aren't there to play with him.
But, be careful with some of the toys you decide to buy your rabbit. Make sure toss toys are light and small, so that your rabbit can easily pick up and toss them.
Cardboard tubes, balls, most cat and bird toys are good.
i don't think rabbits play with toys.id suggest something for him to chew on.preferably some thing with no dye and fortified with vitamins.
They need things they can chew. They need to chew to keep their teeth trimmed.
Yeah dont buy the colored toys from pet stores. its not good for them and they dont like them. i bought some long time ago for my rabbit and it was a waste of money. they like cardboard... but honestly u dont really need to spend a lot of money on it
Mine likes to fling around small plastic (tough plastic, so it isn't ingestable) parrot toys (the kind with linked rings).
My rabbit seems to enjoy anything that makes noise and that he can toss around his cage.
Small toys, cat jingle-balls, and cardboard tubes that they can chew on are all good options.
Here are a couple of the toys I have bought for my rabbits and they absolutely love them. Look for a hard plastic ferret or cat toy with bells. I bought my rabbit a toy at the dollar store and it is his favorite. I tried looking for something similar for you but could not find anything.
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
http://www.petco.com/product/10545/small...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/pr...
They already have a Roll N Chew toy which they don't really play with-they seem to avoid coloured woods, but they love their Treat Ball. One is about 5 years old and the other is one, and they're both on the large side-not fat, but quite big. Any reccomendations? Thanks.
Answers:
The more you play with your rabbit, the more it'll consider you as its play mate, especially if it doesn't have a rabbit companion. Making and buying toys is a great way to bond with with your rabbit, and you will see him do things you didn't think rabbits could do - like dance! Plastic Slinkys, hard plastic baby key rings, hard plastic baby rattles and small unvarnished, unpainted baskets are great rabbit toys. Some other toys that rabbits prefer are paper bags and cardboard boxes for crawling inside, cardboard roll from paper towels or toilet paper, cat toys: batta balls, and other cat toys that roll or can be tossed, parrot toys that can be tossed or hung from the top of the cage, baby toys: hard plastic (not teething) toys like rattles and keys, and slinkies. It's really exciting and fun playing with your rabbit because you'd be amazed on how much fun you and your bunny will be having. If you want a way to play with your rabbit that I'd most likely recommend, I'd be happy to tell you:
- Cut a cardboard from a roll of paper towels into halves or thirds and stuff it with hay. Clean toilet paper tubes work well, too.
- Get on the floor with your rabbit and give him one of the toys. Rabbits, like cats, are independent. Let your rabbit come to you. Rabbits are also very curious. They will want to check you out.
- Shake a rattle, or anything that can shake and make a particular noise, and then place it on the ground near your rabbit. He will probably pick it up and toss it.
- Play games, like hide and seek with your rabbit or have him find alfalfa pellets hidden in your closed hands.
- Pretend the Slinky, if you have one already or bought one, is sneaking up on him. He will lunge at it and pretend to attack it. Roll the cardboard tube toward him or stand it up on end. He will pick it up and toss it or push it over. Then, let him have it and toss it around.
- Leave these toys in your rabbit's play area so he can play on his own when you aren't there to play with him.
But, be careful with some of the toys you decide to buy your rabbit. Make sure toss toys are light and small, so that your rabbit can easily pick up and toss them.
Cardboard tubes, balls, most cat and bird toys are good.
i don't think rabbits play with toys.id suggest something for him to chew on.preferably some thing with no dye and fortified with vitamins.
They need things they can chew. They need to chew to keep their teeth trimmed.
Yeah dont buy the colored toys from pet stores. its not good for them and they dont like them. i bought some long time ago for my rabbit and it was a waste of money. they like cardboard... but honestly u dont really need to spend a lot of money on it
Mine likes to fling around small plastic (tough plastic, so it isn't ingestable) parrot toys (the kind with linked rings).
My rabbit seems to enjoy anything that makes noise and that he can toss around his cage.
Small toys, cat jingle-balls, and cardboard tubes that they can chew on are all good options.
Here are a couple of the toys I have bought for my rabbits and they absolutely love them. Look for a hard plastic ferret or cat toy with bells. I bought my rabbit a toy at the dollar store and it is his favorite. I tried looking for something similar for you but could not find anything.
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
http://www.petco.com/product/10545/small...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/pr...
Rabbit Rescues in Essex?
I am looking to adopt a female, spayed bunny under a year old. I am interested in lionheads,dwarfs,lops, but i will consider any rabbit. She must be spayed as she will be a companion for my Domino (boy).
I have searched for rescues on the internet, and have found rabbit rehome, briar patch etc.does anyone know of any rescues in essex?somewhere where i can give a little bunny a second chance? thanks
Answers:
Try Essex rabbit rescue.
or
Try www.thebrc.org
http://www.animalrescuers.co.uk/html/rab... - a page on centres..
That's all I can find actually, sorry!
No sorry
There is Warren Lodge Rabbit Rescue in Bowers Gifford www.rabbitsave.co.uk.
Have you tried www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/search... You can search for availiable rabbits on the rabbit rehome data base and can match you a rabbit to your exact specifications and to the area that you are in.
Good luck finding a bunny!
I have searched for rescues on the internet, and have found rabbit rehome, briar patch etc.does anyone know of any rescues in essex?somewhere where i can give a little bunny a second chance? thanks
Answers:
Try Essex rabbit rescue.
or
Try www.thebrc.org
http://www.animalrescuers.co.uk/html/rab... - a page on centres..
That's all I can find actually, sorry!
No sorry
There is Warren Lodge Rabbit Rescue in Bowers Gifford www.rabbitsave.co.uk.
Have you tried www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/search... You can search for availiable rabbits on the rabbit rehome data base and can match you a rabbit to your exact specifications and to the area that you are in.
Good luck finding a bunny!
Rabbit Question?
I want to adopt two small/medium sized rabbits in the next 2 months. I have a cage for them that is large, but I want to give them more room to spend their time and I can't give them free range due to my dog and cat who also have free range of the house and although my dog is very gentle and my cat only hunts smaller prey I'ld like to be on the safe side. My question is other than a hutch, or pet play pen does anyone know another way I can give my rabbits more room? Dimensions: L=4ft, W=2ft, H=4ft. Also does anyone know where I could find
Answers:
Look here, it says guinea pigs, but it works beautifully for rabbits too.
www.guineapigcages.com
genius idea!
Works like a charm.
check online that should help
Being that you already have other pets with the run of the house the only thing I can think of is.. A rabbit room, that is just for them with no other animals because if your cat hunts small prey it may decide to move up a notch on the food chain and could seriously hurt or even kill a bunny. And remember bunnys need to be neutered and spayed if they are gonna live together even if they are the same sex they can be quite aggressive towards one another Good Luck
skip the cage and give them a safe outdoor habitat. be sure to offer lots of covered spaces -small dog kennels, cardboard boxes, etc. provide lots of fresh veggies and water.
Answers:
Look here, it says guinea pigs, but it works beautifully for rabbits too.
www.guineapigcages.com
genius idea!
Works like a charm.
check online that should help
Being that you already have other pets with the run of the house the only thing I can think of is.. A rabbit room, that is just for them with no other animals because if your cat hunts small prey it may decide to move up a notch on the food chain and could seriously hurt or even kill a bunny. And remember bunnys need to be neutered and spayed if they are gonna live together even if they are the same sex they can be quite aggressive towards one another Good Luck
skip the cage and give them a safe outdoor habitat. be sure to offer lots of covered spaces -small dog kennels, cardboard boxes, etc. provide lots of fresh veggies and water.
Rabbit question?
How long can a short hair rabbit live. I condisdering getting a rabbit Yes he is neuterd and gonna get him and animal clinic. Also is it heathy for my rabbit to be outside and i would watch him.
Answers:
They can live for 5 to 8 years, depending on their genetics and the level of care they receive. I've known several who lived even longer than that. It is fine to take your rabbit outside, just make sure he is on a leash. Also, make sure the places you take him are not treated with any pesticides and that they do not have any poisonous plants.
30 days or less
Rabbits are very vulnerable to heat - so it depends on the heat level. During the summer months - 2 liter bottles with ice in them help them.
They live 3-4 years generally depending on the breed. A good rabbit you should get from a show breeder. The ones in the pet store are too expensive and generally are the ones that have genetic issues so bad that the breeder doesn't want it in their blood line anymore. This could be teeth issues and eye issues that the rabbit was born with.
Rabbits can live from 5-10 years, sometimes longer.
Outside is okay, but pet rabbits tend to be a lot more fun inside. It sounds like you're only going to let him out to play..make sure you have a VERY secure yard or smaller wire playpen (sold for puppies) for him, and keep close watch. Avoid direct sunlight and the hottest parts of the day...heat can kill rabbits very easily.
Answers:
They can live for 5 to 8 years, depending on their genetics and the level of care they receive. I've known several who lived even longer than that. It is fine to take your rabbit outside, just make sure he is on a leash. Also, make sure the places you take him are not treated with any pesticides and that they do not have any poisonous plants.
30 days or less
Rabbits are very vulnerable to heat - so it depends on the heat level. During the summer months - 2 liter bottles with ice in them help them.
They live 3-4 years generally depending on the breed. A good rabbit you should get from a show breeder. The ones in the pet store are too expensive and generally are the ones that have genetic issues so bad that the breeder doesn't want it in their blood line anymore. This could be teeth issues and eye issues that the rabbit was born with.
Rabbits can live from 5-10 years, sometimes longer.
Outside is okay, but pet rabbits tend to be a lot more fun inside. It sounds like you're only going to let him out to play..make sure you have a VERY secure yard or smaller wire playpen (sold for puppies) for him, and keep close watch. Avoid direct sunlight and the hottest parts of the day...heat can kill rabbits very easily.
Rabbit question?
im thinking of adopting a mini lop rabbit from an animal shelter
does anybody know about there temperment?
which type of rabbit do you think are the nicest?
should i get a male or a female rabbit?
Answers:
First of all, I say good on you for thinking of taking one from an animal shelter, rather than buying one from a pet shop. I had a beautiful lop called Shelly for quite a few years. She was very friendly and loved to jump up into my arms for a snuggle.
If you are going to get one, then I suggest you go to the shelter to see what they have. They will be able to advise you on the temperament and past history of their charges. Good luck and remember that they do take quite a bit of work, but are well worth the effort.
Rabbits may be easy to love, but they're not quite as easy to care for.
http://www.rabbit.org/care/index.html...
the mini lop rabbit is a very contented breed also the Holland lop my personal favorite breed is the lionhead i have 1 of my own they are so friendly and love attention and lecture they will to anything for attention (eg going up on their hind legs) anyway i better stop wappering on about liohead and 1 more thing about lionhead they need a little more grooming as their mane grows to 5-6inches long. About getting a male or female then i would suggest littermates are absoulutely the best choice two males or females may fight whatever age the best decision is to get littermates or neuter/spay either the male or female if you are deciding on getting oppisite sexes. if you are getting 2 of the same sex it would be wise to neuter/spay one of the rabbit as if you don't it may lead to fighting i would say it is quite alot to do with the individual rabbit personality as with humans and others animals
HOPE THIS HELPS!
We have had 2 mini lop males and they are the nicest, most loving rabbits we have had. We have only had male mini lops, so I don't know about the females. We just lost one who was 10+ years old. The only problem is that their ears need to be cleaned more frequently than other bunnies because of the lop ears.
does anybody know about there temperment?
which type of rabbit do you think are the nicest?
should i get a male or a female rabbit?
Answers:
First of all, I say good on you for thinking of taking one from an animal shelter, rather than buying one from a pet shop. I had a beautiful lop called Shelly for quite a few years. She was very friendly and loved to jump up into my arms for a snuggle.
If you are going to get one, then I suggest you go to the shelter to see what they have. They will be able to advise you on the temperament and past history of their charges. Good luck and remember that they do take quite a bit of work, but are well worth the effort.
Rabbits may be easy to love, but they're not quite as easy to care for.
http://www.rabbit.org/care/index.html...
the mini lop rabbit is a very contented breed also the Holland lop my personal favorite breed is the lionhead i have 1 of my own they are so friendly and love attention and lecture they will to anything for attention (eg going up on their hind legs) anyway i better stop wappering on about liohead and 1 more thing about lionhead they need a little more grooming as their mane grows to 5-6inches long. About getting a male or female then i would suggest littermates are absoulutely the best choice two males or females may fight whatever age the best decision is to get littermates or neuter/spay either the male or female if you are deciding on getting oppisite sexes. if you are getting 2 of the same sex it would be wise to neuter/spay one of the rabbit as if you don't it may lead to fighting i would say it is quite alot to do with the individual rabbit personality as with humans and others animals
HOPE THIS HELPS!
We have had 2 mini lop males and they are the nicest, most loving rabbits we have had. We have only had male mini lops, so I don't know about the females. We just lost one who was 10+ years old. The only problem is that their ears need to be cleaned more frequently than other bunnies because of the lop ears.
Rabbit question?
should i put my rabbit in a two piece rabbit kit bundle cage?
or should i put my rabbit in a glass aquarium with a mesh top?
the rabbit i have tries to pee in her fave corner in her two piece cage (she poops whereever she wants to) and when she pees the pee stream bounces off her low corner and hits the wall real high up.
what are the pros and cons for each rabbit condo?
Answers:
I agree w/ the other person that answered, a aquarium wouldn't be good for the rabbit. The cage would be better, you can either get the liter box or get pee guards and put them up on the cage.
Never put rabbits in glass tanks. They don't have enough ventilation, and the rabbit can kick hard enough to break the glass. Get a highbacked corner litter box like they make for ferrets--they're great for bunnies too!
or should i put my rabbit in a glass aquarium with a mesh top?
the rabbit i have tries to pee in her fave corner in her two piece cage (she poops whereever she wants to) and when she pees the pee stream bounces off her low corner and hits the wall real high up.
what are the pros and cons for each rabbit condo?
Answers:
I agree w/ the other person that answered, a aquarium wouldn't be good for the rabbit. The cage would be better, you can either get the liter box or get pee guards and put them up on the cage.
Never put rabbits in glass tanks. They don't have enough ventilation, and the rabbit can kick hard enough to break the glass. Get a highbacked corner litter box like they make for ferrets--they're great for bunnies too!
Rabbit question?
hi i have mini rex rabbits about 24 and well one of them stated to sneeze and snot was comming out and stuff then a couple others started to do it i don't know what it is ot what i should do please help i got them form a personal breeder
Answers:
Shoot, if you've got 24 you need to know this (and get a better mentor than the breeder you got them from if they were no help). Separate all those with symptoms, now. Keep an eye on your herd and take out any others that show the same symptoms later.
This is basic stuff so my first thought is Snuffles (pasturella/bordatella). It can wipe out your whole herd if left alone. Take your worst case (rabbit that first showed symptoms) to your rabbit vet ASAP to be seen and get meds for the rest of them. It used to be that those rabbits were just killed to save the herd but now days there is more knowledge and good medicines that can control it although your rabbits may not be quite as vigorously healthy. Talk to your vet.
Purchase some Vanodine, if you don't already have some, and treat everything often. I use it for EVERYTHING and for every pet in our home - even our lizards.
Do you have a good rabbit book? Try "Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits" by Bob Bennett. KW Cages also has a nice selection but start with Bob's book.
Don't wait to separate your ill ones and get treatment. Good luck!
they have a cold
well...yes like sarah said they seem to have a cold...just watch them, make sure where ever you have them is in a good spot, head wise, not too much sun ect. keep an eye on them, keep them clean(and their cages clean) provde fresh water, and perhaps, mineral treat or w/e for extra vitmins and stuff...and just wait til they get better...btw, i dont think you need to do all of those...use ur own judgement
Amber's got the right answer on this one, and as an important note: RABBITS DO NOT GET COLDS.
Answers:
Shoot, if you've got 24 you need to know this (and get a better mentor than the breeder you got them from if they were no help). Separate all those with symptoms, now. Keep an eye on your herd and take out any others that show the same symptoms later.
This is basic stuff so my first thought is Snuffles (pasturella/bordatella). It can wipe out your whole herd if left alone. Take your worst case (rabbit that first showed symptoms) to your rabbit vet ASAP to be seen and get meds for the rest of them. It used to be that those rabbits were just killed to save the herd but now days there is more knowledge and good medicines that can control it although your rabbits may not be quite as vigorously healthy. Talk to your vet.
Purchase some Vanodine, if you don't already have some, and treat everything often. I use it for EVERYTHING and for every pet in our home - even our lizards.
Do you have a good rabbit book? Try "Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits" by Bob Bennett. KW Cages also has a nice selection but start with Bob's book.
Don't wait to separate your ill ones and get treatment. Good luck!
they have a cold
well...yes like sarah said they seem to have a cold...just watch them, make sure where ever you have them is in a good spot, head wise, not too much sun ect. keep an eye on them, keep them clean(and their cages clean) provde fresh water, and perhaps, mineral treat or w/e for extra vitmins and stuff...and just wait til they get better...btw, i dont think you need to do all of those...use ur own judgement
Amber's got the right answer on this one, and as an important note: RABBITS DO NOT GET COLDS.
Rabbit Problem?
I recently adopted a rabbit from the pound after I lost mine. This rabbit eats its own poop! Why does she do it and how can I get her to stop?
Answers:
Rabbits produce 2 types of feces, the harder pelleted feces normally found in a rabbit cage, and the soft, greenish, mucous covered feces. These softer feces are actually called cecotropes. The cecotropes usually won't be found in the cage, as the rabbit normally eats these as they are produced. As gross as it sounds, cecotropes are quite nutritious being high in some vitamins, etc. In fact, the production of cecotropes is a very important and significant part of the digestive sytem function of rabbits. Proper function of the digestive system (and a proper diet) will ensure that rabbits get optimal nutrition from their diet and the production of these cecotrop
It is eating the round pelleted poop, or does the poop it's eating look a bit more like a bunch of grapes? If so, these are cecals and are full of beneficial bacteria. It's perfectly normal for the rabbit to eat them.
This is normal and actually healthy. Rabbits eat a lot of hay and other grains which take a long time to digest. The first time a rabbit eats, they only digest about half of what they eat. What they poop out isn't really "poop", even though it looks like it. It is half digested food which is rich in many of the nutrients the rabbit could not absorb the first time it ate. So your rabbit must eat the "poop" in order to get these missing nutrients. The second time it comes out as actual poop and your rabbit will not eat this.
You should not do anything to stop your rabbit or you could cause lots of health problems.
www.rabbit.org for more info
Answers:
Rabbits produce 2 types of feces, the harder pelleted feces normally found in a rabbit cage, and the soft, greenish, mucous covered feces. These softer feces are actually called cecotropes. The cecotropes usually won't be found in the cage, as the rabbit normally eats these as they are produced. As gross as it sounds, cecotropes are quite nutritious being high in some vitamins, etc. In fact, the production of cecotropes is a very important and significant part of the digestive sytem function of rabbits. Proper function of the digestive system (and a proper diet) will ensure that rabbits get optimal nutrition from their diet and the production of these cecotrop
It is eating the round pelleted poop, or does the poop it's eating look a bit more like a bunch of grapes? If so, these are cecals and are full of beneficial bacteria. It's perfectly normal for the rabbit to eat them.
This is normal and actually healthy. Rabbits eat a lot of hay and other grains which take a long time to digest. The first time a rabbit eats, they only digest about half of what they eat. What they poop out isn't really "poop", even though it looks like it. It is half digested food which is rich in many of the nutrients the rabbit could not absorb the first time it ate. So your rabbit must eat the "poop" in order to get these missing nutrients. The second time it comes out as actual poop and your rabbit will not eat this.
You should not do anything to stop your rabbit or you could cause lots of health problems.
www.rabbit.org for more info
Rabbit pooping problem?
I gave my sister a lionhead for her kids ,they love him but whenever they pick him up he poops all over and even pees on them is there a way to correct this?he is about 3 months old
thanks
Answers:
Rabbits naturally hate being picked up it's because they are prey animals. In fact if handled incorrectly if it squirms it could break its back. I suggest you get her the book The House Rabbit Handbook by Marinell Harriman. it's an excellent resource http://www.rabbit.org
I have several rabbit recipes I can provide.
make rabbit stew
i have never hird of alionhead doing this but i do know what it means he douse not like the kids picking him up at all he knows it will get them to put him down if he goes on them. tell the kids to pet him whell he is in his cage for a bout 2 weeks then try to pick him up again and see if this fixes the prob its worht a try and will save some close cuz bunny pee stans
Maybe the kids are making him nervous or they are rough with the rabbit? Rabbits are very sensitive to noise and being man handled. Make sure the kids are quiet and gentle and see what happens. He could also have wet tail if his droppings are runny which require medicine and less roughage in his diet.
rabbits poop a LOT...I have a 10 lb lop myself. Rabbits can be potty trained, mine is. He is a house rabbit and only sleeps in his cage at night. I have many litter pans around the house, but he still drops presents occasionally. your rabbit is too young to realize pooping on people is wrong. Go to houserabbitsoceity.com for further help. it is a fantastic website.
I have a pet rabbit too. Rabbits have a weird digestive tract. They have to eat plenty of high fiber foods all the time in order to keep themselves from getting a hairball lodged in their intestines (because a rabbit cannot vomit like a cat does). Thus, since a rabbit needs to eat plenty of vegetables and high fiber foods, they poop a lot!
I suggest trying to litter train your rabbit. Also, expect poop occasionally left behind on your floor. My rabbit hops around and sometimes poops at the same time!! I call her a "cocoa puff dispenser"! LOL! :-)
thanks
Answers:
Rabbits naturally hate being picked up it's because they are prey animals. In fact if handled incorrectly if it squirms it could break its back. I suggest you get her the book The House Rabbit Handbook by Marinell Harriman. it's an excellent resource http://www.rabbit.org
I have several rabbit recipes I can provide.
make rabbit stew
i have never hird of alionhead doing this but i do know what it means he douse not like the kids picking him up at all he knows it will get them to put him down if he goes on them. tell the kids to pet him whell he is in his cage for a bout 2 weeks then try to pick him up again and see if this fixes the prob its worht a try and will save some close cuz bunny pee stans
Maybe the kids are making him nervous or they are rough with the rabbit? Rabbits are very sensitive to noise and being man handled. Make sure the kids are quiet and gentle and see what happens. He could also have wet tail if his droppings are runny which require medicine and less roughage in his diet.
rabbits poop a LOT...I have a 10 lb lop myself. Rabbits can be potty trained, mine is. He is a house rabbit and only sleeps in his cage at night. I have many litter pans around the house, but he still drops presents occasionally. your rabbit is too young to realize pooping on people is wrong. Go to houserabbitsoceity.com for further help. it is a fantastic website.
I have a pet rabbit too. Rabbits have a weird digestive tract. They have to eat plenty of high fiber foods all the time in order to keep themselves from getting a hairball lodged in their intestines (because a rabbit cannot vomit like a cat does). Thus, since a rabbit needs to eat plenty of vegetables and high fiber foods, they poop a lot!
I suggest trying to litter train your rabbit. Also, expect poop occasionally left behind on your floor. My rabbit hops around and sometimes poops at the same time!! I call her a "cocoa puff dispenser"! LOL! :-)
Rabbit people please.?
My 18 week old (aprx) rabbit is litter trained and was doing really well, but now everytime i get her out she pees. So she hasn't really been getting any excersise now because I can't let her out of her cage. Help?
Answers:
I had a female rabbit when I was younger.
If you can get her spayed, that would be a good idea.
The reason for this, which I never knew during the time I owned the rabbit, is due to the females going into heat alllll the time! My rabbit would back her rear up into a corner as far as possible, aim and pee outside of her cage--we even put boards up on the side she used, and it would still soak up and drip. And it was red. Stained the wall and ground. It was always such a MESS! And so much of it!! I was young and didn't know what was going on at the time lol.
Maybe she's happy to see you.
Check out the new book "The Bunny Whisperer" from the library.
take it to the if u think u should but ur rabbit is probably exited when u take it out so it pees
Your rabbit is learning that she likes having a clean house and if you don't keep it clean to her specifications, you willl get pee on the floor.
She will also learn to pee out the side of her cage too...fun stuff!
Clean her pee out of the litter box more often, maybe even multiple times a day. She doesn't like stepping into it.
are you sure that its EVERYTIME? its probably a reaction to seeing you or just being startled. don't worry about the litter training. as long as she knows that its available to use and has used it a couple of times in the past, im sure that she'll continue to. this might just be a phase. My one rabbit (rescued from a daycare i used to work at) is 5 years old and used to use a litter box...according the the teacher. now that i have him, he's going back to using it. don't be super worried about her, I'm sure that she's a healthy baby bunny. but if your really concerned, maybe you should call a small animal vet clinic and see what they think. Good luck!
she just had afew accidents if she is litter trainer put the litter out of the cage so she can go in the box and not on the floor.
Could it be the litter? If they have littered it previously, sometimes they won;t go again in the same litter. If it isn't that, Maybe if the litter box is in her cage, sometimes they won't go where they live, but ouside of it instead...bettyk
Answers:
I had a female rabbit when I was younger.
If you can get her spayed, that would be a good idea.
The reason for this, which I never knew during the time I owned the rabbit, is due to the females going into heat alllll the time! My rabbit would back her rear up into a corner as far as possible, aim and pee outside of her cage--we even put boards up on the side she used, and it would still soak up and drip. And it was red. Stained the wall and ground. It was always such a MESS! And so much of it!! I was young and didn't know what was going on at the time lol.
Maybe she's happy to see you.
Check out the new book "The Bunny Whisperer" from the library.
take it to the if u think u should but ur rabbit is probably exited when u take it out so it pees
Your rabbit is learning that she likes having a clean house and if you don't keep it clean to her specifications, you willl get pee on the floor.
She will also learn to pee out the side of her cage too...fun stuff!
Clean her pee out of the litter box more often, maybe even multiple times a day. She doesn't like stepping into it.
are you sure that its EVERYTIME? its probably a reaction to seeing you or just being startled. don't worry about the litter training. as long as she knows that its available to use and has used it a couple of times in the past, im sure that she'll continue to. this might just be a phase. My one rabbit (rescued from a daycare i used to work at) is 5 years old and used to use a litter box...according the the teacher. now that i have him, he's going back to using it. don't be super worried about her, I'm sure that she's a healthy baby bunny. but if your really concerned, maybe you should call a small animal vet clinic and see what they think. Good luck!
she just had afew accidents if she is litter trainer put the litter out of the cage so she can go in the box and not on the floor.
Could it be the litter? If they have littered it previously, sometimes they won;t go again in the same litter. If it isn't that, Maybe if the litter box is in her cage, sometimes they won't go where they live, but ouside of it instead...bettyk
Rabbit people come here..?
Well I am ready to take the challenge of breeding rabbits, particualry mini-lops, what do I need and where are any rabbit farms in Pennsylvania, thank you! I need all the information I can get to make sure I do not harm my rabbits.
Answers:
Artichoke, give us a little time to answer! :-) I left a long response on your previous question, go have a look.
Go to www.arba.net and search for show dates in PA. Find something somewhat close to you and plan to spend a few hours at the show. You'll meet LOTS of nice people. That's the best way to find yourself some good mini lops. You can also learn about showing rabbits, which you should do if you plan to breed rabbits. You don't want to breed without a purpose in mind, and showing your bunnies is the best way to determine if you are reaching your goals.
go to adorablebunnies.wetpaint.com hat's where i found all my information on rabbits!
Answers:
Artichoke, give us a little time to answer! :-) I left a long response on your previous question, go have a look.
Go to www.arba.net and search for show dates in PA. Find something somewhat close to you and plan to spend a few hours at the show. You'll meet LOTS of nice people. That's the best way to find yourself some good mini lops. You can also learn about showing rabbits, which you should do if you plan to breed rabbits. You don't want to breed without a purpose in mind, and showing your bunnies is the best way to determine if you are reaching your goals.
go to adorablebunnies.wetpaint.com hat's where i found all my information on rabbits!
Rabbit peed on a small spot of cushion on the couch...landlord wants me to pay for a deluxe cleaning!?
He peed on a small spot while sitting on my lap because her dog came running up the stairs (came home unexpectialy). I offered to get the spot cleaned (even though it was small). She sends me an e-mail saying that I owe her 250 for the cleaning! She got the whole couch cleaned, and the loveseat also cleaned that the bunny didn't even have an accident on. I feel as though she is taking advantage of this. What should I say or do? I offered to clean the spot where he peed (one cushion) not her whole living room set!!
Answers:
Simply ask for a reciept and the company who cleaned the couch
call the company and see how much it cost to clean just the one cushion then offer her the amount it would cost
mention that you are sorry your rabbit had an accident on the couch but when you offered you did not mean the entire living room set
I think you should only have to pay for the cushion that the rabbit peed on, you do not owe her a full living room set cleaning. So no dont pay her 250 dollars if anything pay her 50. Good Luck!
tell her that you will not pay 250 but you will pay like 15 for the one couch cushion.
yeah just pay $50...it was up to her to get the set cleaned even tho it didnt need it...you dont owe her $250 shes just trying to get some money...
ask her for proof she spent $250 like a reciept or something
cuz if she only spent like $150 you can sue her
($250 sounds like a lot to clean a couch and a loveseat)
ohh and she cant make you pay $250...if you have to go to court
and it could not have been that big of a mess...i have a rabbit also and she dosent make a big mess when she pee's...
and shes a 8lbs rabbit...
I would tell her no .. That you will pay for the 1 cushion and that is it.. And really this should have been worked out before they came to clean it.. she jumped the gun or she is trying to make you pay for something that needed to be done anyways.. Offer her 25-40 dollars if even that for the cushoin cleaning.. do you know who cleaned her furniture call them and ask them what each piece cost to have done and break it down to your portion would even better if you could get a copy of the billing and the services done.. Good luck
wow! try at least being friends, so non-enemies will have consideration for each other...
have another way of cleaning, and convince her this "special way" was expensive and the best for this situation!
you may find this won't be as truthful, but I doubt you'll ever pay that much for cleaning!
p.s. offer this lady ..."since i did this___ for your coach, is there anything I can do/get for you to show how sorry I am?"
Yes, she's taking advantage of it.
If you can, wherever she had it cleaned, call and ask what it would cost to get something (sofa) cleaned. I wonder if she really had it cleaned at all.
Answers:
Simply ask for a reciept and the company who cleaned the couch
call the company and see how much it cost to clean just the one cushion then offer her the amount it would cost
mention that you are sorry your rabbit had an accident on the couch but when you offered you did not mean the entire living room set
I think you should only have to pay for the cushion that the rabbit peed on, you do not owe her a full living room set cleaning. So no dont pay her 250 dollars if anything pay her 50. Good Luck!
tell her that you will not pay 250 but you will pay like 15 for the one couch cushion.
yeah just pay $50...it was up to her to get the set cleaned even tho it didnt need it...you dont owe her $250 shes just trying to get some money...
ask her for proof she spent $250 like a reciept or something
cuz if she only spent like $150 you can sue her
($250 sounds like a lot to clean a couch and a loveseat)
ohh and she cant make you pay $250...if you have to go to court
and it could not have been that big of a mess...i have a rabbit also and she dosent make a big mess when she pee's...
and shes a 8lbs rabbit...
I would tell her no .. That you will pay for the 1 cushion and that is it.. And really this should have been worked out before they came to clean it.. she jumped the gun or she is trying to make you pay for something that needed to be done anyways.. Offer her 25-40 dollars if even that for the cushoin cleaning.. do you know who cleaned her furniture call them and ask them what each piece cost to have done and break it down to your portion would even better if you could get a copy of the billing and the services done.. Good luck
wow! try at least being friends, so non-enemies will have consideration for each other...
have another way of cleaning, and convince her this "special way" was expensive and the best for this situation!
you may find this won't be as truthful, but I doubt you'll ever pay that much for cleaning!
p.s. offer this lady ..."since i did this___ for your coach, is there anything I can do/get for you to show how sorry I am?"
Yes, she's taking advantage of it.
If you can, wherever she had it cleaned, call and ask what it would cost to get something (sofa) cleaned. I wonder if she really had it cleaned at all.
Rabbit owners, did you get your rabbit neutered?
If so why?
If not why?
I have a little girl of 9 weeks old, I know she cant be done till 6 months but is it ideal to get her done? they say neutered rabbits live longer etc
Answers:
dont neuter your rabbit ever -reason =high sex drive and your rabbit will suffer depression as for them living longer if neutered ,rubbish ,i have had over 5000 rabbits in the past 25 years not one was neutered and the oldest one lived was 15 years--rabbit breeder for 25 years
YES; we got our Flemish Giant neutered.
Why should rabbits be neutered?
Prevent pregnancy
Reduce the risk of diseases of the reproductive system: uterine cancer, ovarian disease, mammary disease, endometrial hyperplasia and uterine polyps, pyometra and endometritis, false pregnancy, orchitis/epididymitis
Prevent or control behavior problems: urine spraying and problems with litter box training, aggression and fighting, chewing
Provide opportunity to have multiple rabbits
Reduce odor
Rabbits are generally spayed or castrated when they are 4-6 months of age. Neutering should be performed before the rabbit is 2 years old to get the benefit of prevention of disease.
Yes, you should get her neuterd. Rabbits have a lot of babies at one time. So unless you are up to the job of taking care of 20 rabbits then i would. Also if they get out of their cage then it will be SOOOOOOOOO freakin' hard to find them!
no we do not have another rabbit for her to breed with
if you have other rabbits and you don't know their sex you should definitely get your rabbit neutered. The rabbits don't really like it though because my friend has a rabbit and it's not as nice now after he neutered it than before he neutered it.
I've had 14 rabbits in the past and none of them got fixed and they were perfectly fine. I can't spend $100 on fixing my bunny. I belong to a rabbit club, and none of the members have there bunny fix ethier. I just really don't see the benifits. :) (And no they don't live longer if you decided to fix her..)
at first no, because we had it on authority that even though they were both young they were males. BUT nature proved otherwise and soon we had 7 bunnies..then we had 12....after that we got all the boys neutered, and we had a happy little bunny colony...but my how they breed. it is easier to neuter a male as with a female the operation involves invasive surgery...but it can prevent the formation of things like reproductive tract cancers and false pregnancies...have a chat with your vet or someone who breeds rabbits..and make your decision from there.
no i dont really think so, i had several rabits and they were fine. but i do belive that neutering will help with them with the spraying urine and chewing- but i never tried. if you are planning for the just one bunny then i would neuter her.
My vet wouldn't recommend neutering rabbits unless:
- there are medical reasons;
- they had aggressive tendencies (the bunny not the vet); or,
- to prevent pregnancy.
Bunnies are notoriously dodgy with anaesthetic. There's a high percentage that don't wake up again!
My advice would be 'not unless you have to'.
No, we try giving him what he gets in the wild.
I got mine neutered because it was two boys living together. It depends on your rabbits personality really if she is a softy leave her if she starts to get territorial get her neutered. Don't leave it too late though. Personally I'd get her done and consider getting another rabbit from an rspca place that specializes in pairing rabbits.
If not why?
I have a little girl of 9 weeks old, I know she cant be done till 6 months but is it ideal to get her done? they say neutered rabbits live longer etc
Answers:
dont neuter your rabbit ever -reason =high sex drive and your rabbit will suffer depression as for them living longer if neutered ,rubbish ,i have had over 5000 rabbits in the past 25 years not one was neutered and the oldest one lived was 15 years--rabbit breeder for 25 years
YES; we got our Flemish Giant neutered.
Why should rabbits be neutered?
Prevent pregnancy
Reduce the risk of diseases of the reproductive system: uterine cancer, ovarian disease, mammary disease, endometrial hyperplasia and uterine polyps, pyometra and endometritis, false pregnancy, orchitis/epididymitis
Prevent or control behavior problems: urine spraying and problems with litter box training, aggression and fighting, chewing
Provide opportunity to have multiple rabbits
Reduce odor
Rabbits are generally spayed or castrated when they are 4-6 months of age. Neutering should be performed before the rabbit is 2 years old to get the benefit of prevention of disease.
Yes, you should get her neuterd. Rabbits have a lot of babies at one time. So unless you are up to the job of taking care of 20 rabbits then i would. Also if they get out of their cage then it will be SOOOOOOOOO freakin' hard to find them!
no we do not have another rabbit for her to breed with
if you have other rabbits and you don't know their sex you should definitely get your rabbit neutered. The rabbits don't really like it though because my friend has a rabbit and it's not as nice now after he neutered it than before he neutered it.
I've had 14 rabbits in the past and none of them got fixed and they were perfectly fine. I can't spend $100 on fixing my bunny. I belong to a rabbit club, and none of the members have there bunny fix ethier. I just really don't see the benifits. :) (And no they don't live longer if you decided to fix her..)
at first no, because we had it on authority that even though they were both young they were males. BUT nature proved otherwise and soon we had 7 bunnies..then we had 12....after that we got all the boys neutered, and we had a happy little bunny colony...but my how they breed. it is easier to neuter a male as with a female the operation involves invasive surgery...but it can prevent the formation of things like reproductive tract cancers and false pregnancies...have a chat with your vet or someone who breeds rabbits..and make your decision from there.
no i dont really think so, i had several rabits and they were fine. but i do belive that neutering will help with them with the spraying urine and chewing- but i never tried. if you are planning for the just one bunny then i would neuter her.
My vet wouldn't recommend neutering rabbits unless:
- there are medical reasons;
- they had aggressive tendencies (the bunny not the vet); or,
- to prevent pregnancy.
Bunnies are notoriously dodgy with anaesthetic. There's a high percentage that don't wake up again!
My advice would be 'not unless you have to'.
No, we try giving him what he gets in the wild.
I got mine neutered because it was two boys living together. It depends on your rabbits personality really if she is a softy leave her if she starts to get territorial get her neutered. Don't leave it too late though. Personally I'd get her done and consider getting another rabbit from an rspca place that specializes in pairing rabbits.
Rabbit nest or not?
Okay couple of days ago I went outside and went to see her bedding but its nothing there apart from newspaper, straw and .. lots of fur! But its like summer and shouldnt preper for winter yet surely! Is she pregnant? Please help :)
Her names Benny (At first we didnt know if she was a boy or girl until now as she used to claw u if u try and check)
Answers:
You shouldnt let your rabbit near other wild rabbits or she will get a disease called maximoltosis(sumthing like that)and can die..Your rabbit might be pregnant and you should find out in a week or 2 when theres a litter of bunnies squirming around in her nest..if they are born DO NOT TOUCH THEM.She will neglect or kill the bunnies if u do.
Well, that's definitely a nest. Has she been around ANY other rabbits in the last month? If so, she may be pregnant.
If she's been all by herself for over 31 days, then she is likely experiencing a false pregnancy. She'll build the nest and tend it for several days to a week, then lose interest and likely dismantle it herself.
Getting her spayed should prevent this behavior in the future...false pregnancies aren't harmful, but no one wants their pet plucking themselves bald every two months!
If she's pulling fur off of her back and putting it down as a bedding, there is a very good chance that she's pregnant. First, do you own a male rabbit? Are they both fixed? So, maybe that's the answer. If you suspect a pregnancy, go to the vet to make sure that everything is moving along fine.
I'd be concerned with who the father is...
sounds likely that she is pregnant. was there any chance that she was with another rabbit. If there is no chance(100%) then no shes not. if its possible, dont mess with her nest and you'll have some cute bunnies real soon.
Unless she has been with a male rabbit she is not pregnant, rabbits will pull their fur out in the summer because they HATE hot weather! They love the snow better. Sometimes females will think their pregnant because they want to mate. You shouldn't breed unless you know for sure what you are doing. For the hot weather, if she is outside it is a good idea to make sure she has fresh water daily and if it gets really hot freeze a bottle of water (2 liters) and put it in her cage. and in the winter when it gets really cold, drape a tarp over the cage or put plexy glass on the sides. They love cold weather but not freezing weather.
I've been raising, showing and breeding for 5 years now and happens every summer to my rabbits.
just keep an eye on her. =]
well bunnies do sometimes tend to go through a false pregnancy.all you need to do is just let her carry out on her natural course.most rabbits do this so its nothing to worry about.and about the fur well my rabbit is acting as if its always summer she never stops malting,so dont worry.
She is building a nest and since she is pulling out her fur I would say that she is almost positively pregnant.
It doesn't necessarily mean she is pregnant. If she has been around other rabbits then it could be that she is pregnant.
My rabbit makes nests and there is no way she could be pregnant. I think its just in their instinct as females.. at a guess anyway.
Do you leave your rabbit running loose in your garden when you go out? Or do you leave her in a run? You shouldn't be leaving your rabbit unsupervised when you go out, unless you know she is secure/safe, in a hutch/run for example.
If you have left her unsupervised while she is loose, it is indeed very possible that your rabbit has bred with a wild rabbit. Just sit back and watch her for a bit, if its a phantom pregnancy she will get bored within a few days, if its real, nest building means she could be close to giving birth. Either way, when it is safe to do so, I would recommend getting her spayed, and buying her a large run, so when you are out she can have a safe run about.
If you really want to find out, take her along to your vet. They can check and tell you for certain. Good luck!
Rabbit gestation lasts for approx 31 days so if she hasn't been near a male for that length of time the most likely answer is that she is experiencing a pseudo pregnancy. This is basically a false pregnancy with all the signs of the real thing. She may even put on weight etc. It will eventually wither and she will get back to normal.
Yes, that's a nest. She may be pregnant. For info on how to care for baby rabbits, visit http://homepage.mac.com/mattocks/morfz/r...
Good luck!!
Her names Benny (At first we didnt know if she was a boy or girl until now as she used to claw u if u try and check)
Answers:
You shouldnt let your rabbit near other wild rabbits or she will get a disease called maximoltosis(sumthing like that)and can die..Your rabbit might be pregnant and you should find out in a week or 2 when theres a litter of bunnies squirming around in her nest..if they are born DO NOT TOUCH THEM.She will neglect or kill the bunnies if u do.
Well, that's definitely a nest. Has she been around ANY other rabbits in the last month? If so, she may be pregnant.
If she's been all by herself for over 31 days, then she is likely experiencing a false pregnancy. She'll build the nest and tend it for several days to a week, then lose interest and likely dismantle it herself.
Getting her spayed should prevent this behavior in the future...false pregnancies aren't harmful, but no one wants their pet plucking themselves bald every two months!
If she's pulling fur off of her back and putting it down as a bedding, there is a very good chance that she's pregnant. First, do you own a male rabbit? Are they both fixed? So, maybe that's the answer. If you suspect a pregnancy, go to the vet to make sure that everything is moving along fine.
I'd be concerned with who the father is...
sounds likely that she is pregnant. was there any chance that she was with another rabbit. If there is no chance(100%) then no shes not. if its possible, dont mess with her nest and you'll have some cute bunnies real soon.
Unless she has been with a male rabbit she is not pregnant, rabbits will pull their fur out in the summer because they HATE hot weather! They love the snow better. Sometimes females will think their pregnant because they want to mate. You shouldn't breed unless you know for sure what you are doing. For the hot weather, if she is outside it is a good idea to make sure she has fresh water daily and if it gets really hot freeze a bottle of water (2 liters) and put it in her cage. and in the winter when it gets really cold, drape a tarp over the cage or put plexy glass on the sides. They love cold weather but not freezing weather.
I've been raising, showing and breeding for 5 years now and happens every summer to my rabbits.
just keep an eye on her. =]
well bunnies do sometimes tend to go through a false pregnancy.all you need to do is just let her carry out on her natural course.most rabbits do this so its nothing to worry about.and about the fur well my rabbit is acting as if its always summer she never stops malting,so dont worry.
She is building a nest and since she is pulling out her fur I would say that she is almost positively pregnant.
It doesn't necessarily mean she is pregnant. If she has been around other rabbits then it could be that she is pregnant.
My rabbit makes nests and there is no way she could be pregnant. I think its just in their instinct as females.. at a guess anyway.
Do you leave your rabbit running loose in your garden when you go out? Or do you leave her in a run? You shouldn't be leaving your rabbit unsupervised when you go out, unless you know she is secure/safe, in a hutch/run for example.
If you have left her unsupervised while she is loose, it is indeed very possible that your rabbit has bred with a wild rabbit. Just sit back and watch her for a bit, if its a phantom pregnancy she will get bored within a few days, if its real, nest building means she could be close to giving birth. Either way, when it is safe to do so, I would recommend getting her spayed, and buying her a large run, so when you are out she can have a safe run about.
If you really want to find out, take her along to your vet. They can check and tell you for certain. Good luck!
Rabbit gestation lasts for approx 31 days so if she hasn't been near a male for that length of time the most likely answer is that she is experiencing a pseudo pregnancy. This is basically a false pregnancy with all the signs of the real thing. She may even put on weight etc. It will eventually wither and she will get back to normal.
Yes, that's a nest. She may be pregnant. For info on how to care for baby rabbits, visit http://homepage.mac.com/mattocks/morfz/r...
Good luck!!
Rabbit Keeps Scratching Like There Is No Hay In The Hay Rack?
why does my rabbit keep scratching like she is trying to get hay but when she gets it she just sets it down and keeps acting like she cant get any.? She Does It Every Single Night What's Wrong With Her.?
Answers:
Digging is a natural reflex in rabbits. In the wild, the rabbit would dig a burrow and call that home. We've taken the rabbits out of the wild and put them in cages, but that drive to dig a "home" is still there. I have 40 rabbits, and most of them dig in the corners of their cages.
she is doing a typical nesting behavior, leave her be, she's fine.
I dunno.. Take a video stick it on youtube. Wahtever it is it aint nothing serious...
Sounds like nesting. My rabbit also pulls out some of her fur and lines her nest with it. I feel horrible when I have to clean out her hutch and destroy her hard work!
Answers:
Digging is a natural reflex in rabbits. In the wild, the rabbit would dig a burrow and call that home. We've taken the rabbits out of the wild and put them in cages, but that drive to dig a "home" is still there. I have 40 rabbits, and most of them dig in the corners of their cages.
she is doing a typical nesting behavior, leave her be, she's fine.
I dunno.. Take a video stick it on youtube. Wahtever it is it aint nothing serious...
Sounds like nesting. My rabbit also pulls out some of her fur and lines her nest with it. I feel horrible when I have to clean out her hutch and destroy her hard work!
Rabbit in his burrow?
I adopted a rabbit a few months ago; I've never had one before. Since a week ago I found he's made a VERY long winding hole in my garden floor- and he's been down there since yesterday morning. Should I be worried? No he doesn't have a mate. So what on earth is he doing down there for so long? Should I try to get him out or just wait till he wants to come back?
Answers:
A: are you sure he is a he
B: are you sure he is the only one in that hole
I would make sure he is in there and not some other animal and why would you not put him or her in a cage. i would go get a cage so he or she doesn't get hurt. In the wild they make a home in a hole so you might never see him or her. remember Bugs Bunny ..
I have a rabbit thankfully he doesn't dig large holes or burrows.
He probaly wont come back up, i can imagine a hole built to its specications is much more entertaining than a hutch.
Food would be one of its biggest problems try leaving some good food out side of the hole. My rabbit loves petunias as a treat.
Wht ever you do dont try to dig him out. The tunnel may collapse. unless you know the exact postion of the rabbit in the hole.
he may be scared of something that cant reach him in his hole.
Hope he comes out !
The best thing to do is to get him out! Once he is in there you never know when he will come out and when he does you may not be there and he could be attacked by cats dogs and foxes. Also it is quite likely there could be another bunny down there so get bunny out and fill the hole
i would try to cox him out
make sure u get him out
something could get him.. somehow
if he doesnt get out go in after him
then bathe him :] lol
when he does come out give him treats but make sure u watch him wehn u let him wander around like that
alrite i hope that helped
Jenny
Answers:
A: are you sure he is a he
B: are you sure he is the only one in that hole
I would make sure he is in there and not some other animal and why would you not put him or her in a cage. i would go get a cage so he or she doesn't get hurt. In the wild they make a home in a hole so you might never see him or her. remember Bugs Bunny ..
I have a rabbit thankfully he doesn't dig large holes or burrows.
He probaly wont come back up, i can imagine a hole built to its specications is much more entertaining than a hutch.
Food would be one of its biggest problems try leaving some good food out side of the hole. My rabbit loves petunias as a treat.
Wht ever you do dont try to dig him out. The tunnel may collapse. unless you know the exact postion of the rabbit in the hole.
he may be scared of something that cant reach him in his hole.
Hope he comes out !
The best thing to do is to get him out! Once he is in there you never know when he will come out and when he does you may not be there and he could be attacked by cats dogs and foxes. Also it is quite likely there could be another bunny down there so get bunny out and fill the hole
i would try to cox him out
make sure u get him out
something could get him.. somehow
if he doesnt get out go in after him
then bathe him :] lol
when he does come out give him treats but make sure u watch him wehn u let him wander around like that
alrite i hope that helped
Jenny
Rabbit- how to litter box train, how to tell if it 's a boy or girl, how to disipline?
We have a rabbit that is about 6 months old now. How do you go about litter box training, (or whatever you call it) so that he can freely run around the house? I hate locking him up all the time, but I hate following him to pick up poop all the time.
Also, how can you tell if it's a boy or a girl?
And what do you do to discipline them when they bite or are chewing on something they shouldn't be?
The last thing I was wondering was, can you train a rabbit to come by name?
Answers:
In his cage, put a box with litter in it in the spot that he usually relieves himself in.
When a rabbit is mature, the males usually have very noticeable testicles. You can't miss them.
When they bite or chew, pull them away and say "no" in a firm voice as you would with a cat or dog.
They may or may not learn to recognize their name, it depends on the rabbit.
Clip their toenails often, otherwise walking on curved nails could be painful for them.
i had they same questions when i got my rabbit. litter training is pretty easy. i just put a litter pan with corn cob stuff and she seem to use but every once in a while you will see droppings. telling if its a male or female is just they way you can tell form dogs, cats, etc. when my chews on something i take it away. tell them no and smack them(not hard just a tap)i have never train a rabbit to come by his name but i guess its possable it doesn't work for me. clipping the nails you will need to people i usually give them carrots and clip until the quick. i hope i help
Also, how can you tell if it's a boy or a girl?
And what do you do to discipline them when they bite or are chewing on something they shouldn't be?
The last thing I was wondering was, can you train a rabbit to come by name?
Answers:
In his cage, put a box with litter in it in the spot that he usually relieves himself in.
When a rabbit is mature, the males usually have very noticeable testicles. You can't miss them.
When they bite or chew, pull them away and say "no" in a firm voice as you would with a cat or dog.
They may or may not learn to recognize their name, it depends on the rabbit.
Clip their toenails often, otherwise walking on curved nails could be painful for them.
i had they same questions when i got my rabbit. litter training is pretty easy. i just put a litter pan with corn cob stuff and she seem to use but every once in a while you will see droppings. telling if its a male or female is just they way you can tell form dogs, cats, etc. when my chews on something i take it away. tell them no and smack them(not hard just a tap)i have never train a rabbit to come by his name but i guess its possable it doesn't work for me. clipping the nails you will need to people i usually give them carrots and clip until the quick. i hope i help
Rabbit help?!?
My two month old Holland lop is marking her territory...which wouldn't really bother me except that her urine is a rusty red-ish orange color, and is staining my carpet. Which is weird because she only goes inside her cage, some how its getting out side of it...I've put down cage liners outside her cage, but she still ends up getting it on the carpet.
I have two of them and my first never marked her territory at least not with rusty urine...they share the same cage and I'm thinking thats why shes doing it.
I clean the cage every couple of days, I was thinking this might be the problem, maybe its forcing her to do it all over again...
I've been told that the rusty colored urine is normal, just a sign of marking her space...
Will she ever stop?
Is there a way to keep her from doing this?
Is the rusty color in her urine actually normal?
Answers:
Many rabbits often pass urine that oxidizes to an orange, red, or even brown color. No one knows for sure why this is, although raising Netherland Dwarfs we often found to much protine in the urine caused dark or orange looking urine.
you can buy urine guards at the pet shop which cover the sides of the cage about 12 inches up this should stop them from peeing out the side of the cage
where can i get cage liners? how much?
my rabbits pee gets on my carpet too!
hey thanks ikaffy!! ive looked at other pet stores but they dont seem to have it im going to petsmart
Can you get her a separate cage, that would probably help. If not then try putting a bigger tray underneath the cage to catch the pee, or put plastic down where it's staining so it won't get on the carpet. Dumb ?, are you sure she's doe? it sounds more like a buck marking the territory, but I guess it could be a doe.
The rusty color is normal, there's nothing wrong with her there.
Hope that helps.
My lil bunny got scared and just peed on the spot and left a stain and I bought this stuff called Resolve and it got the stain right out.
your rabbit is still a baby so it probably will have a couple of accidents
have you started litter box training yet?
since you have 2 females living together i would also suggest you get them fixed since that will end the marking of the territory once the hormones cool down
it will also prevent fights in the future
for the color i would contact your rabbits vet none of my rabbits have ever had a rusty red color hmmm... it may be her diet are you feeding them lots of hays such as timothy? that should cut down on the color.
for more information i would suggest going here
http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego...
I have two of them and my first never marked her territory at least not with rusty urine...they share the same cage and I'm thinking thats why shes doing it.
I clean the cage every couple of days, I was thinking this might be the problem, maybe its forcing her to do it all over again...
I've been told that the rusty colored urine is normal, just a sign of marking her space...
Will she ever stop?
Is there a way to keep her from doing this?
Is the rusty color in her urine actually normal?
Answers:
Many rabbits often pass urine that oxidizes to an orange, red, or even brown color. No one knows for sure why this is, although raising Netherland Dwarfs we often found to much protine in the urine caused dark or orange looking urine.
you can buy urine guards at the pet shop which cover the sides of the cage about 12 inches up this should stop them from peeing out the side of the cage
where can i get cage liners? how much?
my rabbits pee gets on my carpet too!
hey thanks ikaffy!! ive looked at other pet stores but they dont seem to have it im going to petsmart
Can you get her a separate cage, that would probably help. If not then try putting a bigger tray underneath the cage to catch the pee, or put plastic down where it's staining so it won't get on the carpet. Dumb ?, are you sure she's doe? it sounds more like a buck marking the territory, but I guess it could be a doe.
The rusty color is normal, there's nothing wrong with her there.
Hope that helps.
My lil bunny got scared and just peed on the spot and left a stain and I bought this stuff called Resolve and it got the stain right out.
your rabbit is still a baby so it probably will have a couple of accidents
have you started litter box training yet?
since you have 2 females living together i would also suggest you get them fixed since that will end the marking of the territory once the hormones cool down
it will also prevent fights in the future
for the color i would contact your rabbits vet none of my rabbits have ever had a rusty red color hmmm... it may be her diet are you feeding them lots of hays such as timothy? that should cut down on the color.
for more information i would suggest going here
http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego...
Rabbit Help?
Will the babies come out deformed, or will they have problems if i breed two different breeds like mini rex and something else?!
Answers:
There shouldn't be a problem as long as the two breeds of rabbits are similar in size, or the female is larger than the male. If you bred a large 5 lb male rabbit with a 3 lb female rabbit, the babies might get stuck. The female should be larger than the male.
They should not be deformed, as long as the "something else" is another breed of rabbit.
Depends on what you breed it to. Some rabbits are notorious for being difficult to kindle (delivering the babies). Large heads. Trust me, you don't want a stuck baby.
Get a good book like "Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits" by Bob Bennet. He's the man. You'll like the book.
You could also talk to a local ARBA exhibitor/breeder or email one. Use the minirex website below to find a breeder or email the secretary. Or you could go to a rabbit show in your area and talk to exhibitors there. They'll be more than happy to help you out and answer your questions. Very friendly atmosphere there.
Possibly. You should read the responses on your previous question.
I am just curious as to why you would want to breed mutt rabbits.
there are so many abandoned rabbit that die, get killed by other animals and the lucky ones that get into a rescue.
there is no need to breed your rabbit.
answer No might not be deformed, but I would (if you insist on breeding) make sure that the Doe is larger than the Buck to avoid stuck kits and having your rabbit die in birth or an expensive C-section.
Answers:
There shouldn't be a problem as long as the two breeds of rabbits are similar in size, or the female is larger than the male. If you bred a large 5 lb male rabbit with a 3 lb female rabbit, the babies might get stuck. The female should be larger than the male.
They should not be deformed, as long as the "something else" is another breed of rabbit.
Depends on what you breed it to. Some rabbits are notorious for being difficult to kindle (delivering the babies). Large heads. Trust me, you don't want a stuck baby.
Get a good book like "Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits" by Bob Bennet. He's the man. You'll like the book.
You could also talk to a local ARBA exhibitor/breeder or email one. Use the minirex website below to find a breeder or email the secretary. Or you could go to a rabbit show in your area and talk to exhibitors there. They'll be more than happy to help you out and answer your questions. Very friendly atmosphere there.
Possibly. You should read the responses on your previous question.
I am just curious as to why you would want to breed mutt rabbits.
there are so many abandoned rabbit that die, get killed by other animals and the lucky ones that get into a rescue.
there is no need to breed your rabbit.
answer No might not be deformed, but I would (if you insist on breeding) make sure that the Doe is larger than the Buck to avoid stuck kits and having your rabbit die in birth or an expensive C-section.
Rabbit help!!?
I have rabbit that got sick and is using the litter box and urinating in the cage and then laying in it. Still uses her box but urinates all over the cage. I took her to the vet but all of her tests came back fine. What is going on?? Anyone else have this problem...
Answers:
The only time I've seen a rabbit pee indiscriminantly is when it's injured its back. If it seems to be getting around just fine, then reduce the size of its living space to minimum required living space for the breed or size (if he's got plenty of room)and put two or three litter boxes in the corners. Increase the living space gradually as your rabbit begins to consistently hit the mark.
If the problem is that it's not potty trained, then once it IS, give it a small cardboard or paper grocery bag to hang out in. He'll probably like it better than the litter box. They like things that they can make "clubhouses" out of - even a llitterbox if that's the only thing they have. Maybe even if it's not.
Hope that helps.
My rabbit acts like that when he is to hot!! Maybe it has a bladder infection?? but if the test came back normal then it could be heat!! Also to many treats or unclean water can to that to!!
its probably not pooty trained? lol. well, my bunnies are in a cage outside and when the dump theyre "waste" it all falls down under the cage. but, the also go in one carner and somehow the "waste" did not go down, and they made a pile if "waste".they lay on it and sit on it like its a pillow or something. they have never gotten sick and they love that pile. so i think its perfectly normal for your bunny to do that.
Answers:
The only time I've seen a rabbit pee indiscriminantly is when it's injured its back. If it seems to be getting around just fine, then reduce the size of its living space to minimum required living space for the breed or size (if he's got plenty of room)and put two or three litter boxes in the corners. Increase the living space gradually as your rabbit begins to consistently hit the mark.
If the problem is that it's not potty trained, then once it IS, give it a small cardboard or paper grocery bag to hang out in. He'll probably like it better than the litter box. They like things that they can make "clubhouses" out of - even a llitterbox if that's the only thing they have. Maybe even if it's not.
Hope that helps.
My rabbit acts like that when he is to hot!! Maybe it has a bladder infection?? but if the test came back normal then it could be heat!! Also to many treats or unclean water can to that to!!
its probably not pooty trained? lol. well, my bunnies are in a cage outside and when the dump theyre "waste" it all falls down under the cage. but, the also go in one carner and somehow the "waste" did not go down, and they made a pile if "waste".they lay on it and sit on it like its a pillow or something. they have never gotten sick and they love that pile. so i think its perfectly normal for your bunny to do that.
Rabbit help needed..?
What is the best feed for rabbits?
What is the best handbook on rabbits?
What are the vitamins you should have on hand?
What toys do rabbits like?
Answers:
I own a rabbit too. I recommend a book that I found at Barnes %26 Noble called, "The Rabbit Handbook". It helped me out a lot. Also, there is a magazine dedicated to rabbits called, "Rabbits USA". They are really good for information too...but, they are a annual publication (meaning they are printed once a year.) You can find those magazines at a PetSmart store near you.
I recommend doing your shopping for your rabbit at PetSmart too. They have a whole section dedicated to small animals. They have rabbit feed, toys, vitamins, handbooks, everything you'll need for your furry friend!
I use nutriphase rabbit food for my rabbit, as well as fresh veggies every day and Kaytee timothy hay. Instead of buying a handbook on rabbits, use the internet. The book I have doesnt answer some of my questions, and I can find everything I need on the internet for free. Vitamins arent really needed for rabbits unless they arent fed properly, as long as it has a balanced diet, it should be fine. My rabbit loves to play with toilet paper and paper towel rolls, plastic baby keys, brown paper lunch sacks filled with timothy hay, and plastic bags. Most of they toys I buy at the store my rabbit wont use. He loves homemade toys. Other toy ideas are phone books, small blankets, and balls.
What is the best handbook on rabbits?
What are the vitamins you should have on hand?
What toys do rabbits like?
Answers:
I own a rabbit too. I recommend a book that I found at Barnes %26 Noble called, "The Rabbit Handbook". It helped me out a lot. Also, there is a magazine dedicated to rabbits called, "Rabbits USA". They are really good for information too...but, they are a annual publication (meaning they are printed once a year.) You can find those magazines at a PetSmart store near you.
I recommend doing your shopping for your rabbit at PetSmart too. They have a whole section dedicated to small animals. They have rabbit feed, toys, vitamins, handbooks, everything you'll need for your furry friend!
I use nutriphase rabbit food for my rabbit, as well as fresh veggies every day and Kaytee timothy hay. Instead of buying a handbook on rabbits, use the internet. The book I have doesnt answer some of my questions, and I can find everything I need on the internet for free. Vitamins arent really needed for rabbits unless they arent fed properly, as long as it has a balanced diet, it should be fine. My rabbit loves to play with toilet paper and paper towel rolls, plastic baby keys, brown paper lunch sacks filled with timothy hay, and plastic bags. Most of they toys I buy at the store my rabbit wont use. He loves homemade toys. Other toy ideas are phone books, small blankets, and balls.
Rabbit had babies and there is blood?
I rehomed a rabbit around 9 weeks ago and I have had alot of problems with her. She made a nest the night I got her and after two weeks I was advised to take it out as she had really messed it up.
3 weeks after that a massive dead baby arriaved and she had not cleaned herself so I bathed her and she was very swollen down there. The following morning I found yet another deforemed dead baby in her litter tray. This was 4 weeks ago an this morning I saw lots of hair in her hutch again and just thought she had another false one then I saw some blood, But the hair is moving.
WHAT IS GOING ON please.
all advise is welcome.
no silly coments though.
I got her from a breeder that was miss treating her, I have NOT bred her.
thank you
Answers:
something is very wrong with her pregnancy, give her some parsely, and lavender that will get her to deliever anymore dead babies,
call the animial hospitial
3 weeks after that a massive dead baby arriaved and she had not cleaned herself so I bathed her and she was very swollen down there. The following morning I found yet another deforemed dead baby in her litter tray. This was 4 weeks ago an this morning I saw lots of hair in her hutch again and just thought she had another false one then I saw some blood, But the hair is moving.
WHAT IS GOING ON please.
all advise is welcome.
no silly coments though.
I got her from a breeder that was miss treating her, I have NOT bred her.
thank you
Answers:
something is very wrong with her pregnancy, give her some parsely, and lavender that will get her to deliever anymore dead babies,
call the animial hospitial
Rabbit bedding?
Sorry to, yet again, blood with an obvious and stupid rabbit question but I'm seriously mixed up about this. I know several people, and have read several things, regarding rabbit bedding. Some people say you can use any of the following for your main rabbit bedding:
*Towels*Pieces of fleece*rabbit cage liners*grass mats*newspaper*
while other people say hamster bedding it fine, same deal as with any hamster; change it once a week. While some of those rich ones say change 1-2 times per week with that expensive rabbits-only bedding that you get at the "99 thousand dollar store". That was a joke! :)
Answers:
Okay. First off, Rabbits do not NEED bedding. It really depends ont he cage and the wants of the owner. NEVER used shavings. They are chewed by bunny and can kill bunny. If you are just lining a cage, use newspaper. There are locak papers for free ont eh stands in every supermarket. Pick up a pile, line the bottom. If you are using as litter in a box, I recommend recycled pellets such as yesterdays news or even feline pine. Pellets absorb great and break down so you know when to change. You want something that will help with odor since rabbit urine is incredibly strong with ammonia. The rabbit is more cofortable on a cold plastic base than on a pile of bedding. they like to flop down and cool off. that bedding will get in eyes and ears and cause infections as well as be irritating to the bun. I only recommend bedding IF you are litter training or have one litter trained. You can also use Equinpine from a local feed store. its used in horse stables. Its a pellet form as well. you can get a 40lb bag for about 10 bucks. I do use shredded newspaper at times too. They love to chew on paper and dig at it so just be aware if you layout nice flat sheets, it wont stay that way.:) Best of luck
ummm...I think you answered ure own question...why don't you just use google instead of wasting out time.
I would NOT use towels, fleece, plastic cage liners, cedar shavings, or pine shavings. I would HIGHLY recommend Carefresh (and for my extra stinky bunny, Carefresh Ultra). It's a paper based litter that is highly absorbant and is not harmful if the rabbit eats it. Towels, fleece, and plastic cage liners can easily block the digestive system if swallowed. Cedar and pine shavings contain aromatic oils and are not safe for the respiratory system in any small animal. Aspen bedding may be used if you're on a tight budget, but it's not very absorbant whatsoever. Also, I would change the bedding once a week. You can also litter-box train a rabbit, and that would cut down on the amount of times you have to change the entire cage. I use "Yesterday's news" for the litter in the litterbox of my fully-litterbox-trained rabbit.
pine shavings are best to use or straw... don't use the cedar shavings they are actually harmful... there's also that newspaper stuff that should work well, i've never used it. when i had rabbits i had cages with wire floors and would give them a piece of carpet to sit on and then they'd have a litterbox filled with pine shavings and under the wire floor was a newspaper liner with cat litter on top and with shavings over top to cut down on dust * seriously buy a rabbit litter box from the pet store you'll be suprised how quickly they'll start to use it (most rabbits perfer one cornor of the cage to make droppings so put the box there) i'd clean the litter box daily or every other day and the bottom pan as it got dirty which was about every 3 weeks or month good luck.
My bunny has pine shavings :)
Don't use ANY bedding. Use a litter box with pelleted wood. Give your rabbit a small hand towel if you wish but its not needed. Grass mats are used if your rabbit has a wire mesh floor in its pen in which case mats (grass or permanent slotted mats) like EZ Rest mats are required.
I would never use hamster or bedding specifically made for rabbits. That's a waste of money. I also don't buy those colorful or yogurty rabbit treats sold at pet stores either. It's junk.
Bedding is messy, unsanitary, will motivate your rabbit not to use its litter box, and well, its a waste and adds unnecessary work for you.
Wire bottom cage - EZ rest mat from KW Cages or sea grass mats from Cost Plus World Market ($1.10/square)
Flat bottom cage - nothing but a litter box and maybe one hand towel and a paper bag for your rabbit to use as a fort
X-pen - same as flat bottom cage but put down a lawn trash bag down and then a painter's canvas on top of that before you place the pen on top (protects your floor).
Use Vanodine to clean your rabbit's pen/cage and other things.
*Towels*Pieces of fleece*rabbit cage liners*grass mats*newspaper*
while other people say hamster bedding it fine, same deal as with any hamster; change it once a week. While some of those rich ones say change 1-2 times per week with that expensive rabbits-only bedding that you get at the "99 thousand dollar store". That was a joke! :)
Answers:
Okay. First off, Rabbits do not NEED bedding. It really depends ont he cage and the wants of the owner. NEVER used shavings. They are chewed by bunny and can kill bunny. If you are just lining a cage, use newspaper. There are locak papers for free ont eh stands in every supermarket. Pick up a pile, line the bottom. If you are using as litter in a box, I recommend recycled pellets such as yesterdays news or even feline pine. Pellets absorb great and break down so you know when to change. You want something that will help with odor since rabbit urine is incredibly strong with ammonia. The rabbit is more cofortable on a cold plastic base than on a pile of bedding. they like to flop down and cool off. that bedding will get in eyes and ears and cause infections as well as be irritating to the bun. I only recommend bedding IF you are litter training or have one litter trained. You can also use Equinpine from a local feed store. its used in horse stables. Its a pellet form as well. you can get a 40lb bag for about 10 bucks. I do use shredded newspaper at times too. They love to chew on paper and dig at it so just be aware if you layout nice flat sheets, it wont stay that way.:) Best of luck
ummm...I think you answered ure own question...why don't you just use google instead of wasting out time.
I would NOT use towels, fleece, plastic cage liners, cedar shavings, or pine shavings. I would HIGHLY recommend Carefresh (and for my extra stinky bunny, Carefresh Ultra). It's a paper based litter that is highly absorbant and is not harmful if the rabbit eats it. Towels, fleece, and plastic cage liners can easily block the digestive system if swallowed. Cedar and pine shavings contain aromatic oils and are not safe for the respiratory system in any small animal. Aspen bedding may be used if you're on a tight budget, but it's not very absorbant whatsoever. Also, I would change the bedding once a week. You can also litter-box train a rabbit, and that would cut down on the amount of times you have to change the entire cage. I use "Yesterday's news" for the litter in the litterbox of my fully-litterbox-trained rabbit.
pine shavings are best to use or straw... don't use the cedar shavings they are actually harmful... there's also that newspaper stuff that should work well, i've never used it. when i had rabbits i had cages with wire floors and would give them a piece of carpet to sit on and then they'd have a litterbox filled with pine shavings and under the wire floor was a newspaper liner with cat litter on top and with shavings over top to cut down on dust * seriously buy a rabbit litter box from the pet store you'll be suprised how quickly they'll start to use it (most rabbits perfer one cornor of the cage to make droppings so put the box there) i'd clean the litter box daily or every other day and the bottom pan as it got dirty which was about every 3 weeks or month good luck.
My bunny has pine shavings :)
Don't use ANY bedding. Use a litter box with pelleted wood. Give your rabbit a small hand towel if you wish but its not needed. Grass mats are used if your rabbit has a wire mesh floor in its pen in which case mats (grass or permanent slotted mats) like EZ Rest mats are required.
I would never use hamster or bedding specifically made for rabbits. That's a waste of money. I also don't buy those colorful or yogurty rabbit treats sold at pet stores either. It's junk.
Bedding is messy, unsanitary, will motivate your rabbit not to use its litter box, and well, its a waste and adds unnecessary work for you.
Wire bottom cage - EZ rest mat from KW Cages or sea grass mats from Cost Plus World Market ($1.10/square)
Flat bottom cage - nothing but a litter box and maybe one hand towel and a paper bag for your rabbit to use as a fort
X-pen - same as flat bottom cage but put down a lawn trash bag down and then a painter's canvas on top of that before you place the pen on top (protects your floor).
Use Vanodine to clean your rabbit's pen/cage and other things.
Rabbit are they good pets?
If so why do some people eat them. I love the way they look. They're cute as a pet. Not to eat.
Answers:
I had rabbits as pets
I thought they were great.
I could never eat an animal that i am on a first name basis with
no , in a house u should have a hamster or a little cat
ya they are there very nice and they are so cute
I had a pet rabbit. He was a wonderful pet, much like a cat but also somewhat like a dog. He was litterbox trained like a cat but would cuddle and lick you like a dog. As for why people eat them, I never could but they do populate themselves relatively quickly and as far as economics go it is understandable that they would be cheap food. I guess it really depends on how you are raised to think of what is normal to eat.
rabbits are nice as pets her are some facts
Rabbit Facts
Rabbits are not rodents but belong to their own order called lagomorphs. The evolutionary split between rabbits and other living mammals probably occurred about thirty million years ago.
There are twelve species of rabbits in the United States with the eastern cottontail being the most widely distributed.
Cottontails vary in color from gray to brown and have large ears and hind feet and fluffy tails. They average about a foot in length and weigh 2 to 3 pounds.
Cottontails are generally found in brushy hedgerows and the edges of wooded areas with dense cover, but also do very well in suburbs and urban areas. Rabbits feed on leafy plants during the growing season and the buds and bark of woody plants in the winter.
Famous for their reproductive abilities, cottontails breed from February through September. Gestation is about 28 days. Three or four litters of four or five young known as kittens are born each year. Young are born helpless in a shallow depression lined with grass and mother鈥檚 fur, but they grow rapidly and are weaned when less than half the size of the adult.
Mothers nurse their babies for approximately 5 minutes a day. The milk is very rich and the babies fill up to capacity within minutes. Mother rabbits do not sit on their babies to keep them warm. Baby rabbits are often "rescued" by well-meaning humans who think that they have been abandoned. Fewer than 10% of these babies survive.
Cottontails may live to two years in the wild, but where predators are numerous, they seldom live more than one. 85% of the rabbit population dies each year. This includes at least one out of every three babies that are born per year.
Many mortality factors affect rabbit populations. Weather is a major factor in nest mortality as ground nests are susceptible to flooding in heavy rains.
Problems and Solutions
Cottontail damage is usually caused by the rabbits feeding on flowers and vegetable plants in spring and summer and fruit trees and ornamentals in the fall and winter. You can tell that rabbits caused the damage by the cleanly cut plant remains and the presence of pea-sized droppings scattered around the area or sometimes left in small piles.
The most effective permanent protection for gardens subject to rabbit damage is a well-constructed fence. Chicken wire supported by posts every 6 to 8 feet is strong enough to exclude rabbits. Such fences normally need to be only about 2 feet high but it is important to make sure that the bottom is either buried 6 to 8 inches or staked securely to the ground to prevent rabbits from pushing their way underneath it. Some gardeners prefer to construct movable fence panels that can be stored as sections (2 x 8 feet) and set out to protect the garden right after the first planting when damage is likely to be most severe. Some years the panels might not be needed at all given the ups and downs that occur with the rabbit population.
When rabbit presence is only sporadic or occasional, new plants can be protected by using 1-gallon plastic milk containers that have the bottom cut out and placed over the seedling or with commercially-available "cloches" which can be purchased in garden supply stores or ordered from the
Answers:
I had rabbits as pets
I thought they were great.
I could never eat an animal that i am on a first name basis with
no , in a house u should have a hamster or a little cat
ya they are there very nice and they are so cute
I had a pet rabbit. He was a wonderful pet, much like a cat but also somewhat like a dog. He was litterbox trained like a cat but would cuddle and lick you like a dog. As for why people eat them, I never could but they do populate themselves relatively quickly and as far as economics go it is understandable that they would be cheap food. I guess it really depends on how you are raised to think of what is normal to eat.
rabbits are nice as pets her are some facts
Rabbit Facts
Rabbits are not rodents but belong to their own order called lagomorphs. The evolutionary split between rabbits and other living mammals probably occurred about thirty million years ago.
There are twelve species of rabbits in the United States with the eastern cottontail being the most widely distributed.
Cottontails vary in color from gray to brown and have large ears and hind feet and fluffy tails. They average about a foot in length and weigh 2 to 3 pounds.
Cottontails are generally found in brushy hedgerows and the edges of wooded areas with dense cover, but also do very well in suburbs and urban areas. Rabbits feed on leafy plants during the growing season and the buds and bark of woody plants in the winter.
Famous for their reproductive abilities, cottontails breed from February through September. Gestation is about 28 days. Three or four litters of four or five young known as kittens are born each year. Young are born helpless in a shallow depression lined with grass and mother鈥檚 fur, but they grow rapidly and are weaned when less than half the size of the adult.
Mothers nurse their babies for approximately 5 minutes a day. The milk is very rich and the babies fill up to capacity within minutes. Mother rabbits do not sit on their babies to keep them warm. Baby rabbits are often "rescued" by well-meaning humans who think that they have been abandoned. Fewer than 10% of these babies survive.
Cottontails may live to two years in the wild, but where predators are numerous, they seldom live more than one. 85% of the rabbit population dies each year. This includes at least one out of every three babies that are born per year.
Many mortality factors affect rabbit populations. Weather is a major factor in nest mortality as ground nests are susceptible to flooding in heavy rains.
Problems and Solutions
Cottontail damage is usually caused by the rabbits feeding on flowers and vegetable plants in spring and summer and fruit trees and ornamentals in the fall and winter. You can tell that rabbits caused the damage by the cleanly cut plant remains and the presence of pea-sized droppings scattered around the area or sometimes left in small piles.
The most effective permanent protection for gardens subject to rabbit damage is a well-constructed fence. Chicken wire supported by posts every 6 to 8 feet is strong enough to exclude rabbits. Such fences normally need to be only about 2 feet high but it is important to make sure that the bottom is either buried 6 to 8 inches or staked securely to the ground to prevent rabbits from pushing their way underneath it. Some gardeners prefer to construct movable fence panels that can be stored as sections (2 x 8 feet) and set out to protect the garden right after the first planting when damage is likely to be most severe. Some years the panels might not be needed at all given the ups and downs that occur with the rabbit population.
When rabbit presence is only sporadic or occasional, new plants can be protected by using 1-gallon plastic milk containers that have the bottom cut out and placed over the seedling or with commercially-available "cloches" which can be purchased in garden supply stores or ordered from the
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Rabbit and Chihuahua problems?
if you have read any of my other questions than you know that i have a rabbit and a chihuahua, well the rabbit ended up being called momo and my chihuahua ended up dying, so we got a new one and we called him wishbone well we put momo and wishbone together and they had seem to get along with each other but after the first day that we had wishbone, it seemed that momo got a little mad about us getting wishbone he really didn't like him, when we but them together a couple of times momo has tried to bit him so we had to put him up and know ever time we try to take him up he trys to bit us what should i do??
Answers:
In the wild, the dog is a natural predator of the rabbit. No matter how long we domesticate animals, they still retain their instincts. Your rabbit probably recognizes the dog as a potential threat to his safety. First, don't ever leave them alone. Any time they spend interacting should be supervised, no matter how well you think they get along. Second, let them spend time near each other while one is caged. They will be curious and sniff at each other through the wire. This will allow them to become familiar with each. You might just have to accept the fact that they will never safely interact, but it's worth a try!
get a pet therapist for the rabbit
Put the fight on youtube.
I would totally bet on the rabbit.
your bunny is just jellus and he dousnt like it when you give your chihuahua. i dont know how to make them to get along but i do know how to make your bunny stop bitting you. He smells the other animal on you be sure to wash yout hands and change your clothes befor going to your rabbit. theis will make him stop that prob.
its simple your bunny was there first, it might take some time for momo to get used to wishbone, i have a lop eared rabbit who chases my cat around maybe they are just playing who knows!
You rabbit is jealous and has lost trust in you. You put your rabbit in an environment that didn't make him happy. I would suggest getting a pair of gloves that your rabbit can not bite through and hold your rabbit 3 times a day until he has learned to trust you again. If these two animals do not get along then do not put them together. Rabbits are very territorial and do not want other animals in their home. Good luck.
Answers:
In the wild, the dog is a natural predator of the rabbit. No matter how long we domesticate animals, they still retain their instincts. Your rabbit probably recognizes the dog as a potential threat to his safety. First, don't ever leave them alone. Any time they spend interacting should be supervised, no matter how well you think they get along. Second, let them spend time near each other while one is caged. They will be curious and sniff at each other through the wire. This will allow them to become familiar with each. You might just have to accept the fact that they will never safely interact, but it's worth a try!
get a pet therapist for the rabbit
Put the fight on youtube.
I would totally bet on the rabbit.
your bunny is just jellus and he dousnt like it when you give your chihuahua. i dont know how to make them to get along but i do know how to make your bunny stop bitting you. He smells the other animal on you be sure to wash yout hands and change your clothes befor going to your rabbit. theis will make him stop that prob.
its simple your bunny was there first, it might take some time for momo to get used to wishbone, i have a lop eared rabbit who chases my cat around maybe they are just playing who knows!
You rabbit is jealous and has lost trust in you. You put your rabbit in an environment that didn't make him happy. I would suggest getting a pair of gloves that your rabbit can not bite through and hold your rabbit 3 times a day until he has learned to trust you again. If these two animals do not get along then do not put them together. Rabbits are very territorial and do not want other animals in their home. Good luck.
R tarantulas really good at climbin vertically or will they prob fall?
mine kinda slides down the wall if she stops movin
Answers:
We don't let our spider (rose-haired) climb the walls in our house because they will die if they fall from any great height. Actually they don't have to be at a great height that's why you have to be careful standing while holding them because they will die if you drop them.
She lives in a large terranium and like your tarantula she kind of slides down the sides. I bought those net things to stick on the side to help her with traction (lol) but only the crickets use it.
She makes us really nervous when she is upside down so we often "rescue" her when we see her doing that.
You might want to place natural logs (from pet store) of various heights for her to climb onto and hide under. Include one that is almost to the top of her terranium so she can reach it if she decides to climb on the very top.
She shed her skin yesterday; it was really cool she looks all fresh and rosy!
ewww! my brother used to have one. They can jump really far and also climb the side of their cage! Though they are very slow (usually) they can move very fast when they want to.
I think they would be better at climbing anything other then glass.
Answers:
We don't let our spider (rose-haired) climb the walls in our house because they will die if they fall from any great height. Actually they don't have to be at a great height that's why you have to be careful standing while holding them because they will die if you drop them.
She lives in a large terranium and like your tarantula she kind of slides down the sides. I bought those net things to stick on the side to help her with traction (lol) but only the crickets use it.
She makes us really nervous when she is upside down so we often "rescue" her when we see her doing that.
You might want to place natural logs (from pet store) of various heights for her to climb onto and hide under. Include one that is almost to the top of her terranium so she can reach it if she decides to climb on the very top.
She shed her skin yesterday; it was really cool she looks all fresh and rosy!
ewww! my brother used to have one. They can jump really far and also climb the side of their cage! Though they are very slow (usually) they can move very fast when they want to.
I think they would be better at climbing anything other then glass.
R hamsters born with fir or bald???
Answers:
their bald little pink things. DON"T PICK THEM UP! You'll get your smell on them and the mom won't like it and she will eat that baby. But yes, bald and pink.
bald
They have FUR.
bald. Later they get fur.
bald with there eyes shut
bald, then they grow a thin layer that gives a little glow, and then fuzz and spots where the color goes and then fur
They are bald and pink. As they get older they get their hair.
ok miriam, who is paying you to ask all these stupid questions? lmao
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